Daewoo Chevrolet Forums and Owners Club

Quote:I have just done this job to my daughters car and it worked a treat. There is no need to remove the entire manifold. Just take the two bolts out on the LHS & cut the end off.

My fix was a little more crude - I placed a piece of floor lino against the engine (soft side in) and bolted the piece that I had cut off back on.

Works ok, but I dont know whow long it will last

Oh - and plenty of silicone sealant
Good luck

It's all fixed now ta. I cut the offending piece off in situ and then fabricated a new piece out of 5mm aluminium plate and bolting it over some gasket material cut to shape. So far so good and no leaks.

Also had to replace a shot blower resistor with one I got on ebay for a tenner.

Good work

Hello there,

If anybody wants a quick and easy way to cheat, here's how. But you must act quickly when you notice water loss.

After arriving home one day I noticed low coolant levels and a wet patch under the tiz. As I read this forum quite often I new what the problem was and after popping the bonnet and seeing water squirting out the relief hole I new I had to do something. As I am short on time to do the proper fix I did this.

1. Go to motor shop and buy two sachets of Radiator Cement, it's about a quid a pack, and a tube of liquid gasket sealant, about three quid.

2. Make sure engine is cold, top coolant up with water too max mark.

3. Add both sachets of radiator cement, yes it's a bit overkill but this is the quick fix.

4. Start engine and let it run for 10 mins, then switch off.

5. Wait 2 hours, then take the tiz for a GENTLE run to warm it through, about 4-5 miles should do. Park it up and leave to cool.

6. When the engine is cool clean around the top and side of the manifold, left hand side as you look at it, then make a seal using the liquid gasket. Cover as much as you can making sure you cover the relief hole completely.

7. Drain some water out of the header, about a small cup full and add some antifreeze.

This is a complete bodge job and if you have time, do it properly. But if like me your short on time this works. As for how long it will last, I don't know. But mines done nearly 1000 miles since and its still dry!

(31-08-2010 06:54 PM)StupidBig Ears Wrote: [ -> ]Hello there,

If anybody wants a quick and easy way to cheat, here's how. But you must act quickly when you notice water loss.

After arriving home one day I noticed low coolant levels and a wet patch under the tiz. As I read this forum quite often I new what the problem was and after popping the bonnet and seeing water squirting out the relief hole I new I had to do something. As I am short on time to do the proper fix I did this.

1. Go to motor shop and buy two sachets of Radiator Cement, it's about a quid a pack, and a tube of liquid gasket sealant, about three quid.

2. Make sure engine is cold, top coolant up with water too max mark.

3. Add both sachets of radiator cement, yes it's a bit overkill but this is the quick fix.

4. Start engine and let it run for 10 mins, then switch off.

5. Wait 2 hours, then take the tiz for a GENTLE run to warm it through, about 4-5 miles should do. Park it up and leave to cool.

6. When the engine is cool clean around the top and side of the manifold, left hand side as you look at it, then make a seal using the liquid gasket. Cover as much as you can making sure you cover the relief hole completely.

7. Drain some water out of the header, about a small cup full and add some antifreeze.

This is a complete bodge job and if you have time, do it properly. But if like me your short on time this works. As for how long it will last, I don't know. But mines done nearly 1000 miles since and its still dry!

but is your heater still working?

Yes it is!
I also thought it would clog it up, but it still gets hot.

ok i have a new inlet with the mod done to it do i have to put a gasket on aswell and do i need to put lots of sealent on aswell any help would be great

No need to put a gasket in where the ally/metal plate is 'cos you won't get the original rubber gasket to sit right. Just use a good sealant and let it set fully before filling with water etc.

(12-11-2010 07:10 PM)Dj4man Wrote: [ -> ]No need to put a gasket in where the ally/metal plate is 'cos you won't get the original rubber gasket to sit right. Just use a good sealant and let it set fully before filling with water etc.

After a year it's still ok, rho we do top up the water bottle now and again, telling me that we still have a tiddy leak, or that it's leaking elsewhere. Its not a lot, so I'll do nothing. Should I remove it or do it again I would do the old fashioned bit of cornflakes box as a gasket, WITH sealant. Cut the middle out so that does not rot and float around the system. That would do a better job methinks.

Just finished doing the leak and cam belt/water pump/ tension pully.
I used 5mm ally.
Followed your guide ,the only other bits i did was to remove the headlight .I also cut out the the spacers from the bit of manifold i cut off.Then cut one of them in half to use on the studs with the repair washers.
Also did a outer cv boot and adjusted the rear wheel bearings.
replace a broken front mad flap .
Service next then Mot .
Thanks for the guide it realy is brill.
john

I have just done this mod to my wifes tizzy, i used a 5mm steel plate which is working grate thanks to all

Hi,

My wife Matiz had the same issue...
According to the guy the AA sent, it was a head gasket but seeing the leak on the side I knew it could not be that bad. I've asked him to just bring the car home...
He quick search brought me to this thread. I was inspired by the idea but wanted to do a "cleaner" job (no offense!). So I took my time and removed the inlet manifold, a pain to do but worth it!

Few bits of advice:
-Get the workshop manual to know where all the bolts and screws you need to remove are. It will also be helpful when you'll have to put everything back together.
-Do not hesitate to remove every parts in your way that can be removed.
-Get 10mm and 12mm ratchet spanners (http://goo.gl/n7W02). They will make things easier!

See how the manifold looked like:
[attachment=1889]

After I cleaned it and, with a dremel, removed all the "walls" to leave an rough clean surface I use a potty to fill it. I mould it so that water would not stay.
[attachment=1890]

This is the one I used (you can see the gasket sealant I used later).
[attachment=1891]

After 24 hours (to be sure that it was hard enough) I sanded the potty to make it flush with the rest of the inlet.
[attachment=1892]

I got a new gasket which I cut to remove the bit I would not need. I used the gasket sealant to make a new (and I hope better) sealant on the rebuild part.

It took me about 3-4 hours to take it all appart (without the ratchet spanners) and about 2 hours to put it all back (with the ratchet spanners!!).
I then flushed the water system using a cleaning solution... The colour of the antifreeze liquid is still rust-ish but I'll flush it again in few hundred miles.
Since we did about 100 miles and there are no leak, no over-heating.

It seems like a big job but if you have time, the tools (did I mention the ratchet spanners? ) and the workshop manual this is not difficult.

Raphael