hello
please excuse my inept babling, but i see a lot of you are having the same problem that i did.
thought i would tell you how i cured it without getting hold of another manifold here goes .
1. removed my manifold and cut the last section off (so the it is now a two piece ).
2. got a piece of aluminium and remanafactured a piece to fit the hole that was now there.
3.faced the front of the piece of metal.
4. made a new gasket and sealed it on with rtv sealant (instant gasket).
5.put a bit of instant gasket on the other side and then bolted it back on the engine.
ran the engine up ..... no leak... kept a check on it ..... its still on the max mark..... by now it would be below that if i drove it down the road .
(i know it sounds a bit long winded but it works)
I will second this I have also done this and it worked a treat. I even got the plate from the former daewoo dealer as they had made up a bag full. Unfortunately I cant get them anymore as the business closed. Should be easy enough to make though.
a thousand words on the subject
I made a plate out of 3mm aluminium plate. If I had a choice to do it again, I'd choose 5mm or thicker, although this would require better equipment to fabricate the part. Anyway, I made and replaced the defective part in app. 2.5 hrs. It works fine for me! Don't forget to flush out the system before finishing the job, otherwise you may have a dirty and/or airlocked system.
I photographed and documented the steps I took. It's attached here for reference only. I don't take responsibility for anyone messing their car up (sorry - get out clause)
-Spikey
(22-03-2009 08:15 AM)Spikey Wrote: [ -> ]I made a plate out of 3mm aluminium plate. If I had a choice to do it again, I'd choose 5mm or thicker, although this would require better equipment to fabricate the part. Anyway, I made and replaced the defective part in app. 2.5 hrs. It works fine for me! Don't forget to flush out the system before finishing the job, otherwise you may have a dirty and/or airlocked system.
I photographed and documented the steps I took. It's attached here for reference only. I don't take responsibility for anyone messing their car up (sorry - get out clause)
-Spikey
Interesting read, saved for future reference
just had my tiz towed away by the AA not 20mins ago with a hole or something in the inlet manifold. when the engine was revved it shot out in a long stream. and coolant completely drained.
anyone have an estimate at what i'm looking at in price for correcting this?
(26-04-2009 04:04 PM)jedidev Wrote: [ -> ]just had my tiz towed away by the AA not 20mins ago with a hole or something in the inlet manifold. when the engine was revved it shot out in a long stream. and coolant completely drained.
anyone have an estimate at what i'm looking at in price for correcting this?
Mine had the same problem last week and also had to be towed away. New inlet manifold colst about £200 for part alone, and came to £340 altogether for fitting etc (Daewoo had to order the part in).
Hey leedsgurl, yeah mine was a similat price in the end. they also had the cheek to charge me £8 for anti-freeze... but its in the garage now and should have it back tonight.
This may sound a stupid question but hey here goes, on the part you are suggesting to cut off the inlet manifold & replace with a blanking plate what actually passes thru this section????
its basically a capped off part of the block that might aswell be welded up really i dont quite understand it unless its to help with cold running and heats the inlet up a bit or something
I believe it to be a tooling hole used in the manufacturing process. There is a small relief hole in the plastic part (that's cut off) to allow water to escape under pressure, but the seal around it wears out and water leaves through there anyway after a few years. I think this manifold/blank plate was a nice idea, but not practical long term. It should of been blanked off properly with a metal plate. Follow the instructions in the file I uploaded, it works a treat. Mine has not leaked since.
Hello all, I've just found this solution after signing up but have a question or two.
May sound like a stupid question but it isn't quite clear from the excellent guide given here:
Does the whole manifold have to be removed first or can the retaining bolts for that end be taken out and then the offending part removed while the manifold is in situ?
Any other things I need to consider?
All advice greatly appreciated.
This has been done to mine also...tho since then ive always kept my eye on the temp guage...I rises quite fast when in motionless traffic....I had the center taken out of the thermostat too so it takes its time reaching maximum temp....seems to have helped.
Thanks for all the forthcoming advice. But never mind, it's all sorted now.
(21-08-2009 01:48 PM)iannalex Wrote: [ -> ]Hello all, I've just found this solution after signing up but have a question or two.
May sound like a stupid question but it isn't quite clear from the excellent guide given here:
Does the whole manifold have to be removed first or can the retaining bolts for that end be taken out and then the offending part removed while the manifold is in situ?
Any other things I need to consider?
All advice greatly appreciated.
I have just done this job to my daughters car and it worked a treat. There is no need to remove the entire manifold. Just take the two bolts out on the LHS & cut the end off.
My fix was a little more crude - I placed a piece of floor lino against the engine (soft side in) and bolted the piece that I had cut off back on.
Works ok, but I dont know whow long it will last
Oh - and plenty of silicone sealant
Good luck