Anybody able to advise on a problem we're havin with 0.8 1999 Matiz. Bought it second hand a few weeks ago and It now seems to be blowing white smoke out exhaust mainly worse when just started , but seems to continue to lesser extent even after long run. Didn't notice this when we bought although did notice water droplets coming from exhaust , but seller convinced us there was nothing in that to worry about.
When started there is a sign of water droplets exiting the exhaust . Also when idling, if I put foot on accelerator increasing the revs the exhaust spits out black watery droplets. These are easily removed from paving and don't look oil based.
No water loss from the water container but the car generally drives ok although there is some engine hesitating moving up the gears .
Compression test was done showed all cylinders same reading and seemed ok. Plugs changed was 2 of them a bit oily .
Aside --No heat from heater so thermostat changed helped a little, but no real heat !
Any ideas how to get rid of these problems without going to dealer for expensive repairs. Car only 39k on the clock .
white smoke will be nothing more than moisture in the exhaust system due to change in weather hopefully.
and for heater noy upto much do a search on here its quite well covered having to do the job myself last year on a matiz
heres the link
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showt...p?tid=2532
for future reference its in the important threads at the top of the page in Matiz Forum Area
When hydrocarbon fuels are burnt they produce CO, CO2, water, carbon and a few other products. When the exhaust system is cold it causes the water vapour in the gas to condense (steam) which is what you are seeing. The longer you drive the more likely the exhaust system will heat up and therefore the steam becomes less obvious. The is the reason why exhaust systems get corroded. The shorter your daily trip the shorter the exhaust system's life expectancy is.
Regarding the no heat problem from your heater I read on here somewhere that somebody with this same problem found that the thermostat elemnet had been put in the wrong way round. Try changing your thermostat element around and see if it makes a difference. It could've been wrong from new and replced the way it came out.
(21-10-2009 09:30 PM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]white smoke will be nothing more than moisture in the exhaust system due to change in weather hopefully.
and for heater noy upto much do a search on here its quite well covered having to do the job myself last year on a matiz
heres the link
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showt...p?tid=2532
for future reference its in the important threads at the top of the page in Matiz Forum Area
Cheers Bodie thanks for your help. Will have a go at the heater core flush method u suggested. Funny, just bought some patio cleaner and it seems quite strong acid mix. About moisture in exhaust - the matiz is parked beside a 6 year old Mitsu Colt and it seems to show very little moisture output from the exhaust.
Same weather for both. Why big difference in exhaust output ? Can it be the Matiz Cat givin problems ?
could well be to do with matiz been a 3 cyclinder beastie
(22-10-2009 10:07 PM)ianstev Wrote: [ -> ]Same weather for both. Why big difference in exhaust output ? Can it be the Matiz Cat givin problems ?
The possibilities are that the Matiz may have a more efficient engine management system and therefore cleaner burning of fuel; exhaust system is shorter; silencer has less baffling.
(23-10-2009 08:50 AM)Mitzy2 Wrote: [ -> ] (22-10-2009 10:07 PM)ianstev Wrote: [ -> ]Same weather for both. Why big difference in exhaust output ? Can it be the Matiz Cat givin problems ?
The possibilities are that the Matiz may have a more efficient engine management system and therefore cleaner burning of fuel; exhaust system is shorter; silencer has less baffling.
Seems to be something more sinister afoot. Matiz now seems to be using a lot of oil - have now had to top up oil twice in last 3 weeks due to oil light coming on and dip showing low. No oil leaks apparent anywhere, so assuming oil is being either burning off or some other reason. No 2 & 3 spark plugs are somewhat oily as well .
Any ideas ???
You said that the engine was compression tested and readings were even. This rules out head gasket leak; compression rings. Possible cause is likely to be the valve stem seals on 2 & 3 have split.
If it was oil rings you would see clouds of blue smoke all the time. Check for lots of blue smoke on start. This would indicate valve stem seals. These can be replaced without removing the head.
If the crankcase breather is choked with 'mayonnaise' (water/oil mix from lots of short runs) the pressure in the crankcase may be forcing oil up the bores.
To clear the breather pipes (usually between the rocker cover & air cleaner box), remove them and feed a piece of wire through. Now twist a small piece of rag onto the wire and pull it back through. This is a job best done over the dustbin, as the mayonnaise is pretty unpleasant!
(27-10-2009 03:58 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote: [ -> ]You said that the engine was compression tested and readings were even. This rules out head gasket leak; compression rings. Possible cause is likely to be the valve stem seals on 2 & 3 have split.
If it was oil rings you would see clouds of blue smoke all the time. Check for lots of blue smoke on start. This would indicate valve stem seals. These can be replaced without removing the head.
Cheers Mitzy. The symptoms seem to point towards the valve stem seals. Is the replacement of these within the capabiliy of a novice or does it require a competent mechanic.
Has anybody a step by step guide to the replacement documented ?
(27-10-2009 04:20 PM)Glider Rider Wrote: [ -> ]If the crankcase breather is choked with 'mayonnaise' (water/oil mix from lots of short runs) the pressure in the crankcase may be forcing oil up the bores.
To clear the breather pipes (usually between the rocker cover & air cleaner box), remove them and feed a piece of wire through. Now twist a small piece of rag onto the wire and pull it back through. This is a job best done over the dustbin, as the mayonnaise is pretty unpleasant!
Thanks Glider. Gonna check this out first this weekend. Love this to be the solution before I investigate the more serious solutions . Will let u know. Car still going ok (except for another annoying issue - on occasion battery seems to be losing charge or going low easily and car won't turn over. Charge up battery and then ok for a while )
(22-10-2009 09:30 AM)Jon Stead Wrote: [ -> ]Regarding the no heat problem from your heater I read on here somewhere that somebody with this same problem found that the thermostat elemnet had been put in the wrong way round. Try changing your thermostat element around and see if it makes a difference. It could've been wrong from new and replced the way it came out.
Jon - thanks for the advice. Have still to get around to checking this. Let you know maybe this weekend.
(29-10-2009 09:30 AM)ianstev Wrote: [ -> ]Cheers Mitzy. The symptoms seem to point towards the valve stem seals. Is the replacement of these within the capabiliy of a novice or does it require a competent mechanic.
Has anybody a step by step guide to the replacement documented ?
It can be done but you need some specialist tools.
You take the plugs out; you can then either use a special inflation bag or feed in cord on top of the piston and then rotate the crank shaft until the piston is at the top of the stroke on that cylinder.
You then need a special valve spring compressor that looks like a pair of pliers. The hackers way is to use a big screw driver and push down on the top of the valve spring and then loosen the cotters and then remove the valve spring. You've got to be careful with the latter option because it is very easy for the cotters to fly off and get lost. With the springs off you can now slip the new seals down the valve shafts.
(29-10-2009 01:15 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote: [ -> ] (29-10-2009 09:30 AM)ianstev Wrote: [ -> ]Cheers Mitzy. The symptoms seem to point towards the valve stem seals. Is the replacement of these within the capabiliy of a novice or does it require a competent mechanic.
Has anybody a step by step guide to the replacement documented ?
It can be done but you need some specialist tools.
You take the plugs out; you can then either use a special inflation bag or feed in cord on top of the piston and then rotate the crank shaft until the piston is at the top of the stroke on that cylinder.
You then need a special valve spring compressor that looks like a pair of pliers. The hackers way is to use a big screw driver and push down on the top of the valve spring and then loosen the cotters and then remove the valve spring. You've got to be careful with the latter option because it is very easy for the cotters to fly off and get lost. With the springs off you can now slip the new seals down the valve shafts.
Thought I should keep you all updated on the progrees so far.
Well, didn't the mitzy develop another issue to side track me from the smokin engine. The car started to stop in between journeys and refuse to start while running down battery same time.
First thing - bought new battery. Car turned over much more easier now.
Car stopping problem revisited. Sometimes started after a 20-30 min rest !! This continued until one day I had a mechanic from local garage have a look and while he was taking a drive it stopped on him. He believed this to be best since now he can start faultfinding with the actual problem present.
He traced it to either the distributor of coil . Got replacements of both from local scrappy and turned out to be the distrubutor . (don't know what part of dizzy was faulty).
Anyhow, got it back after he decided to try some piston seal to see if the smokin problem could be lessened temporarily. Still burnin oil but to lesser extent. Need to revisit when my funds are better.
One day after I got the car back runnin ok the passenger rear suspension arm snapped in half !! - Been replaced by new arm from daewoo (mechanic said they couldn't get second hand from scrappy because removing them from 2nd hand car results in damage to bushes and are quite difficult to get out in one piece)
Car now driving again ok. So I decided to try and fix heater problem.
Changed thermostat around - didn't show any marked improvement.
Flushed heater core as per instruction given on this forum. - Flushed water/ acid mix didn't seem to contain any gunge and heater is still givin out little heat. Any more ideas on this ??
Will update on the smoke issue after I have travel required miles for piston seal to set .
thought i might put in a little input if thats ok.....it sounds like what has just happened to me, my little tiz started to smoke heavily (started out white ish smoke) when running around. Took it to a garage (someone i know) on the way white smoke turned blue ish but still a lot of smoke. the mechanic took a look and thought it was the valve stem seals. did some investigation and used a camera to look inside at the piston rings and found the rings on one of the cylinders gone...so now a few weeks later i have changed the engine (today) and i am now making minor repairs to the new one. Not trying to scare you!!!
(30-01-2010 11:58 PM)Minifer Wrote: [ -> ]the mechanic took a look and thought it was the valve stem seals. did some investigation and used a camera to look inside at the piston rings and found the rings on one of the cylinders gone...so now a few weeks later i have changed the engine (today)
same thing happened to me on my 2001 car, just had to buy an engine, seems that rings are an issue !
and this thread here
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showt...king+matiz