Hello there guys n gals, pretty new to this forum, well real new but reading sounds and looks good......
Bought my dad a x reg Matiz about 4 years ago, recently he passed away and the car is back with me after lieing in garage for about 6 months.
Anyway did all the usual bits n bobs including brakes (pads shoes n pipes) new clutch (real intresting to do) then put it in for the MOT result..failed on two minor mechanical issues, now fixed. Big issue was high CO readings, pass is 0.1% and I had 0.19% with garage advising new cat. Should say HC pretty low and CO2 low also.
Fitted brand new cat re submitted for MOT ... CO emmissions now 7.9%...yes 7.9% with the new cat........ at this point tearing out hair as the car now cost a fortune and for personal reasons want it running to use ..........
any ideas that you may have to help
I have fitted a new oxygen sensor, new ignition leads, and cleaned inlet tract including various small vacuum valvr components....... car running same, starts perfect in fact just the same as it did originally.....and should say it did a 300 mile round trip at 70 ish before MOT.....so has a good run to clear it after being idel so long
Sorry for the long ramblings.......
Hi Dave
I never been in Scotland but i saw pictures - lovely peace of heaven>>
now to the good stuff::
do you have leaky fuel injectors?
have you fitted an aftermarket anything in the motor?
is your EGR stuck?
are you running rich - how is your millage?
before you answer any of the above go say hi in newbie section for sake of the nice people who give their time to help us.
Good Luck
Welcome fellow Scot, hope you get it sorted
Welcome to the forum, sorry to hear about your father.
Hope you get the car sorted - keep us informed of your progress.
Pete
Hi, ive got exact same problem and will keep a watch on your progress & let you know if i solve it too, emissions CO failed with high readings 0.4%, all others passed, cars running best it ever has too ? Getting average 42mpg local & 52-55mpg motorway.
checked 02 sensor & CAT today, going to check EGR tomorrow in case its faulty or sticking etc, recently had a full service before MOT & flew through except the emissions problem,
Cheers
Robbie
hey there, I had my MOT a few weeks ago and it failed on emisions, but this was only because they did not let the car get to full temp. Once it got to full temp it passed fine.
hi again,
mine had full check today & its going back on saturday to get sorted, the top end, EGR & inlet manifold are caked in sludge,so had an engine flush & oil /oil filter change today.
its getting a manual stripdown & clean also going to remove sump & check/clean oil pump & sump.
sludge wont help my emissions any !
Cheers
Robbie
(08-09-2010 09:54 PM)robbies2 Wrote: [ -> ]hi again,
mine had full check today & its going back on saturday to get sorted, the top end, EGR & inlet manifold are caked in sludge,so had an engine flush & oil /oil filter change today.
its getting a manual stripdown & clean also going to remove sump & check/clean oil pump & sump.
sludge wont help my emissions any !
Cheers
Robbie
hello,
did you use any type of engine flush fluids?
what is your experience with it?
heard it might do damage to engines with high mileage.
please advice as I've been thinking to flush but reluctant due to the risk involved.
cheers..
hi, for the purpose of quickfix to reduce the sludge i ran wynns engine flush through then did an oil change, manually cleaned parts i could easily remove, egr, throttle body etc, but still going to strip down & manually remove sludge from engine, intake manifold, sump etc, not really a fan of engine flush but did reduce sludge slightly. Ive been told matiz & lanos prone to oil sludge & running 5/30 fully synthetic oil will remove it also with frequent oil changes. Cheers, Robbie
(09-09-2010 07:32 PM)robbies2 Wrote: [ -> ]hi, for the purpose of quickfix to reduce the sludge i ran wynns engine flush through then did an oil change, manually cleaned parts i could easily remove, egr, throttle body etc, but still going to strip down & manually remove sludge from engine, intake manifold, sump etc, not really a fan of engine flush but did reduce sludge slightly. Ive been told matiz & lanos prone to oil sludge & running 5/30 fully synthetic oil will remove it also with frequent oil changes. Cheers, Robbie
thanks - might try an oil flush with my next oil change, hoping it will improve oil flow in those tiny oil tubes.
now the story i heard is when there are too many miles on the engine, it starts to grow wider inside the cylinder and the walls become further to the piston and that sludge works as a sealant to those tiny scratches on the inner wall of a cylinder.
flushing down the sludge will allow oil to get into the combustion chamber - through the freshly cleaned scratches - and start blowing blue smoke from exhaust pipe.
but for sure full synthetic engine oil is the best thing for an engine, but also much more $$$$£££
I’m not a fan of engine flushes.. I also think they remove some of the important caked-on oil from around the seals / moving engine parts. If you’re dead set on flushing your engine then you should use the same engine oil you normal use and run it for a few hundred miles and make sure the engine gets lovely and hot during these runs before dumping it.
Also, I’m not a fan of fully synthetic oils (Possible a waste of hard earned money). Especially, if your engine hasn’t been running on it from day one.. I believe it’s very hard to fully flush out the old oil from an engine. You’re nearly always left with some old oil sloshing around the engine parts. This old ordinary oil will mix with the new fully synthetic oil and could cause it to emulsify or congeal due to the interactions between the different additives within the two oils.
I would stick to the manufactures recommended oil grade for that engine and if I just bought the car then I would also try and find out what oil was used in the car’s last service to make sure I continue to use that oil for the engine’s / car’s life. That and change the oil early (Summer / Winter). In-between half-year DIY oil changes are best and leave the 2nd (annual service) oil change to the garage.
Also follow a few golden rules when first driving your car from cold:
1. Allow the engine to run for 15 seconds – This allows the oil to circulate and heat up a tad.
2. Don’t use more than 1/2 throttle for the first 1~2 miles and 2/3rd throttle for the next 5 miles – It takes about 3~5 miles to heat up the coolant and 10 miles to heat up the gearbox oil.
3. Allow the engine to run on an idle for 30 seconds before switching it off – This prevent hot spots building up within the engine metal parts / cooling system.
4. Once a week make sure the engine gets lovely and hot during a run – This helps evaporate the water within the oil that happens as part of normal engine running / combustion.
Happy motoring..
zitaM
Hi, yes i agree they can remove some of the oil around seals etc & have heard flushes are not good for a high mileage engine but my Tiz only has 62000 on her, im only using 5/30 synthetic oil as a sort of cleaner, oil change to 5/30 then again in a couple of weeks then about 4 weeks later oil change back to my normal 15/40 semi stuff & yup its not cheap.....but cheaper than a major engine repair i suppose.
Any news on your emissions yet David ?
Cheers
Robbie
from personal experience, fully synthetic oil does clean the engine parts, you can see it under the oil fill cab that parts are cleaner and shiny after being brownish. I think this would be much safer than using an engine flush.
from what i heard, it is harmless to change from one type of engine oil type to another without any problem. only some manufacturers try to convince you the contrary to keep you buying the product they make. actually depends on how much you are willing to spend. as for manufacturers' recommendation, they are only as the name suggests; "recommendations".
I’ve also noticed this cleaning action of fully synthetic oil, But I think this could cause a problem for an old engine or an engine that haven’t been treated properly during the early years.. the brownish stuff has to go somewhere (caused by running too many miles on normal oil or running too long between oil services for the driving conditions / driving habits)… sometimes this brownish stuff finds it way onto the hydraulic tappets and causes them to become blocked. In an ideal world we should check our engine oil once per week, but sadly this doesn’t happen anymore.. If we were to check it every week, then we could range an oil service each time the oil starts to change colour or before the damage starts to happen rather than wait for the annual service schedule.
zitaM
yes, but in my case the oil starts changing in color after about a month from daily use around town. its not logical to change the oil only for change of color.
some fully synthetic oil manufacturers claim that you can keep your oil in for more than 6000 miles. it turns almost dark brown way before 3000 miles of use.
what do you think, depend on color, intervals or miles of use?