Hi,
I have 2000 model Matiz that needs new oil control rings (produces lots of exhaust smoke). Can anyone advise best way to strip engine. Do I remove engine and gearbox complete? Is it best to remove engine from above or below? Does anyone have cylinder bore wear limit information.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Mike
Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
(08-09-2010 03:15 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
John,
Thanks for this. Very useful and will hopefully save much grief and swearing! Will definitely look at doing other mods you mentioned at the same time.
One question - Presumably you managed to re-fit the pistons from the top of the cylinder? From my (limited) engine re-build experience, the base of cylinder usually has lead in taper to make this easier. Did you use ring compressor to help stop rings jamming in top of bore?
cheers
Mike
(08-09-2010 03:49 PM)Dolphin2 Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:15 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
John,
Thanks for this. Very useful and will hopefully save much grief and swearing! Will definitely look at doing other mods you mentioned at the same time.
One question - Presumably you managed to re-fit the pistons from the top of the cylinder? From my (limited) engine re-build experience, the base of cylinder usually has lead in taper to make this easier. Did you use ring compressor to help stop rings jamming in top of bore?
cheers
Mike
Hi mike,
There should be no taper in the bores,
yes, I used a piston ring compressor, the pistons will slide in with slight persuasion from a block of wood, make sure the compressor is tight on the rings and level,
use plenty of engine oil to coat the bores etc.
it's a good idea to renew the valve stem guides at the same time.
The job sounds a lot harder than it is, just be methodical
cheers
John[/u]
[/color]
(09-09-2010 02:39 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:49 PM)Dolphin2 Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:15 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
John,
Thanks for this. Very useful and will hopefully save much grief and swearing! Will definitely look at doing other mods you mentioned at the same time.
One question - Presumably you managed to re-fit the pistons from the top of the cylinder? From my (limited) engine re-build experience, the base of cylinder usually has lead in taper to make this easier. Did you use ring compressor to help stop rings jamming in top of bore?
cheers
Mike
Hi mike,
There should be no taper in the bores,
yes, I used a piston ring compressor, the pistons will slide in with slight persuasion from a block of wood, make sure the compressor is tight on the rings and level,
use plenty of engine oil to coat the bores etc.
it's a good idea to renew the valve stem seals at the same time.
The job sounds a lot harder than it is, just be methodical
cheers
John[/u]
(09-09-2010 02:39 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:49 PM)Dolphin2 Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:15 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
John,
Thanks for this. Very useful and will hopefully save much grief and swearing! Will definitely look at doing other mods you mentioned at the same time.
One question - Presumably you managed to re-fit the pistons from the top of the cylinder? From my (limited) engine re-build experience, the base of cylinder usually has lead in taper to make this easier. Did you use ring compressor to help stop rings jamming in top of bore?
cheers
Mike
Hi mike,
There should be no taper in the bores,
yes, I used a piston ring compressor, the pistons will slide in with slight persuasion from a block of wood, make sure the compressor is tight on the rings and level,
use plenty of engine oil to coat the bores etc.
it's a good idea to renew the valve stem seals at the same time.
The job sounds a lot harder than it is, just be methodical
cheers
John[/u]
[/color]
(09-09-2010 02:39 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:49 PM)Dolphin2 Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:15 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
John,
Thanks for this. Very useful and will hopefully save much grief and swearing! Will definitely look at doing other mods you mentioned at the same time.
One question - Presumably you managed to re-fit the pistons from the top of the cylinder? From my (limited) engine re-build experience, the base of cylinder usually has lead in taper to make this easier. Did you use ring compressor to help stop rings jamming in top of bore?
cheers
Mike
Hi mike,
There should be no taper in the bores,
yes, I used a piston ring compressor, the pistons will slide in with slight persuasion from a block of wood, make sure the compressor is tight on the rings and level,
use plenty of engine oil to coat the bores etc.
it's a good idea to renew the valve stem seals at the same time.
The job sounds a lot harder than it is, just be methodical
cheers
John[/u]
[/color]
(09-09-2010 02:39 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:49 PM)Dolphin2 Wrote: [ -> ] (08-09-2010 03:15 PM)tiswoz Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Dolphin2
I've just done this on my 2000 SE. It can be done with the engine in situ, take off the head and sump and remove the pistons through the top, you can do it in a long day or easily over a weekend.
A couple of tips, if I may.
Make sure the crankshaft pulley is on TDC on the compression stroke.
that the camshaft mark is on the top also the camshaft spigot.
the rotor arm is pointing at No: 1 Plug.
cable tie the cam belt to the camshaft pulley.
you'll need to wiggle the sump to get past the oil pickup.
dont mix up the pistons or big end shells,
there are arrows on the pistons and big end shells.
when refitting, cover the big end threads with hose so as not to damage machined surfaces.
while you've got the head off, do the water jacket mod on the manifold, (elsewhere on the forum)
also replace the heater supply pipes, (they're a pig to do after).
Bore wear info is in the manual (elsewhere on the forum)
There is no gasket on the sump so use a good quality compound.
try to maintain a 12volt supply for the emc, don't try to jump start the car with a charger or the air bag light will come on and have to be reset at the garage
hope this helps
any thing else, just ask
Cheers
John
John,
Thanks for this. Very useful and will hopefully save much grief and swearing! Will definitely look at doing other mods you mentioned at the same time.
One question - Presumably you managed to re-fit the pistons from the top of the cylinder? From my (limited) engine re-build experience, the base of cylinder usually has lead in taper to make this easier. Did you use ring compressor to help stop rings jamming in top of bore?
cheers
Mike
Hi mike,
There should be no taper in the bores,
yes, I used a piston ring compressor, the pistons will slide in with slight persuasion from a block of wood, make sure the compressor is tight on the rings and level,
use plenty of engine oil to coat the bores etc.
it's a good idea to renew the valve stem seals at the same time.
The job sounds a lot harder than it is, just be methodical
cheers
John[/u]
Hi John,
Somw success. Have managed to remove pistons as you say. The oil scraper rings were all jammed solid in teir groovees, so I guess this is my problem. Before I go and order new rings, I would like to check cylinder bore diameter. I have searched forum and have tried downloading manual but cannot find any info on bore diameter / wear limits. Do you have info that you could post on forum or could you point me in the right direction.
Thanks again.
Mike
Hi Mike.
I'll get back as soon as I can, did you clean out the holes behind the oil rings? Probably blocked.
Cheers
John
Hi Mike,
I've looked at a manual for a 2000 matiz, it's the same as the manual for a 2005 Matiz/Spark on Rob Mitchells link above, all the engine tolerances etc: are the same. I guess it's the same engine, but you'll need to verify this.
John