had a problem with your car which you had problems sorting but got there in the end?
Post it here so others can maybe find a solution to a problem.
Please dont ask a question here though start a fresh thread for that.
Cheers Folks
Window Winder Removal non model specific
Been asked this afew times so added to tech page for all to see
have winder pointing down then what you need is a piece of metal with a very small hook on it ( I have a file which I removed handle & bent the end where the handle was I bent the last 2mm & bent it 90 degrees) tuck it in behind winder & door card/cover & you will find a horse shoe clip attaching winder handle to winder mech. Place your other hand above the winder handle & gently pull it up it will come flicking off hence other hand over the top. Winder handle then comes off with no probs.
I also used a file as it aided grip whilst gently pulling it upwards once it had hooked clip!
98 Lanos 1.4 Hesitation, misfire, flat spots.
I've owned my Lanos for about 8 mts. initialy it had a flat spot/hesitation/misfire. If you have a similar problem before taking your car for a diagnostic test check or renew all the rubber ends of the vaccum hoses. diagnostics do not show any leaks which may be present . In my case 2-3 of these hoses were leaking and after replacing them performance improved but not cured. The culprit turned out to be the rubber end of the vaccum hose to the Maf sensor which has 2 different diameters the thicker end had split, after replacement problem solved. The car had only 27k miles so i presume these are one of the weak spots in the engine management system. I think it cost me less than a £1 for a lenght of suitable rubber pipe. Well worth checking over.
Thanks for this one billy
2000 Lanos 1.6L Automatic - Broke Timing Belt
Valve Cover Grommet Substitution
The “complete” gasket set was anything but. Most notably missing was the valve cover grommets and oil pickup tube O-ring. The O-ring was easy to find in any O-ring set and not a problem to acquire. The valve cover grommets, however, proved to be a tad bit more of an issue.
Whoever dissembled the engine had really tweaked some of the metal washers and lost half of the valve cover grommets. After several attempts to find them I resorted to making my own. To do this I picked up a set of “rubber” valve cover gasket for a 1976 Ford F-150 (or F-250), 351 Cleveland (modified) engine. You need to ask for the rubber ones or you may get quark gaskets. There are 8 holes in each gasket. 6 of them are big enough to make/cut the grommets from (12 total, you need 11).
To make the grommets, I took a 6” piece of iron ¾” water pipe and made a nice square cuts on both ends. I then ground the outer edge of one end to make a nice sharp edge/point (knife) to form a punch for cutting the Ford gaskets. I used a flat washer to align/center the grommet and mark my cut area. I set a piece of wood on a firm table, placed the gasket on the wood, aligned my punch, and used a hammer to cut out my grommet with my punch.
The rubber gasket is softer than the old hard grommets I had and compressed nicely when installed. I used regular flat washer where needed in place of bent up or missing factory washers.
Best part was I experience no leakage. However time will tell……….
Timing Belt Install
The manual (from this site) contains detail instructions for installing the timing belt. I followed them and had complete success. However there were a couple things I would like to share.
First, when you line up the cams and adjust the water pump to the first mark on the tensioner, rock the crankshaft back and forth about a quarter turn and then recheck your all your timing marks. My crankshaft gear jumped one tooth and I spun it two full turns before catching it. Luckily no damage was done.
Second, when done with the belt install, spin it a few more times and double check the tensioner setting (second step). Mine had actually loosened up a bit more (1/4” off the mark) and required tweaking of the water pump to put it on the tensioner mark as stated in the manual’s second step.
Lastly, after spinning the engine during the belt install, with the crankshaft pulley off to see the timing marks, the belt may have ridden out a bit (sticking off the crankshaft gear about 1mm or 2). Not an issue when timing it, but you could pinch the belt between the gear and pulley when installing the crankshaft pulley possibly causing damage to the belt on startup. I used a 3/8 extension to push in on the belt as I slowly rotated the engine ensuring the belt was fully on the gear prior to re-installing the crankshaft pulley.
Transmission Fluid Level Check
I searched the manual (from this site), as well as post on this site, on how to check the transmission level. With no apparent dipstick, nor a section of the manual saying how to do it, I found on page 1083, Section 5A-45, 4T40-E “Leak Inspection Points” of the manual I down loaded from this site the location of the transmissions “Fluid Level Plug” (item # 10) and the transmissions “Fill Cap Seal and Vent” plug (item# 12).
Anyone familiar with manual transmissions knows how this works. You remove the plug, add fluid until it begins to come from the level check hole and stop. Trouble is, not to many guys, or girls, are going to fit under this car unless jacked up. My assumption is the car needs to be level to check the fluid level.
In my case I have a nice little ditch I can park over in front of my house. Ground is level on both sides and is no different than setting on level ground. It just gives me an area below the engine I can fit in. From there it is as simple as pulling the plug and adding fluid as needed and reinstalling the plug.
If you take your car to one of the quick change places with a bay to service the car, you may want to make sure they know how to do it and don’t just skip it on you because they can’t find a dipstick.
This is from Christopher Burgess
High idle and ECU replacement
Hi, this is what I did to stop my Lanos 1600cc year 2000 from revving high.
The breather pipe that goes from the bottom of the crankcase to the top of the engine is metal, which gets cold and with the hot engine creates condensation in the pipe. This looks like the top of a pint of Guinness and blocks the airflow around the engine (engine suffocating). I cleaned the pipe out and bought a rubber pipe that fitted over this metal pipe to insulate it.
You could cut this metal pipe at the bottom and leave about an inch and half and put a dubalie clip on, then run a rubber pipe straight to the top, your decision.
This is what I did next.
There are 2 rubber pipes going from the top of the rocker box (left hand side)
The large one I diverted this to the air cleaner box drilled a hole and used a fitting to secure the rubber pipe, and then I blocked the hole from were I took it from,
the smaller rubber pipe that goes under the throttle housing I cut this half way down the pipe and put a inline fuel filter in (little clear plastic one £2.50 @ Hal fords)
This has stopped the vac valve from getting the oil partials from the engine on it; this is why every 3+4 weeks you have to clean it to stop the engine from revving high, Why this happens I am not sure yet.
Since I have done the above to my car, I do not have any more trouble. However, you must change the clear fuel filter you fitted every 4+6 weeks or it will start again. (Gets black quick) which proves this could be the problem, (Design Problem may be)
I am looking at fitting a larger canister with filter so I do not have to keep changing the filter so often.
Do not forget you must take the IAC valve out and clean after you have done this above because it will be dirty from before.
I hope this helps
Chris.
Latest on high revs, Lanos 1600cc year 2000.
Since my last post i have took the small black pipe that goes from the back of the rocker box (cam cover)to the bottom of the plenum which joines to the throttle body, and capt it off, (at the plenum end) and the other end of the pipe i have just left it so it can breave, and for the last two weeks the car has been working fine, i will post the latest findings in about a month and let you all know how it's going, so far so good, with no cost, this could be a good find, lets wait and see.
Chris
Removing the head on a Twin Cam to replace bent valves or a head gasket
This is not a how-to , but a few points I have picked up after fixing 2 heads
First, get yourself a manual, you need all the torque specs.
Before you do anything, mark the relationship between the crank bolt and the pully, to aid in reassembly.
To remove the crank bolt, use a rattle gun, get the local mechanic to loosen it for you, or use the starter motor technique ( 17mm 12 point long socket, and a long breaker bar. Wedge the socket/ breaker bar in with wood, high density foam, etc, and the end of the breaker bar on the ground. Disconnect plug leads, blip the starter, and if you have done it right, the bolt will be loose)
When removing the head from a Lanos leave the inlet manifold and exhaust on the engine, just disconnect all leads, vaccum lines etc, and the exhaust headers at the pipe (3 bolts). I take photos of before/ after to help in re-assembly.
Take off the cam gears as there are bolts behind them holding the back timing cover plate on to the head, remove head bolts in correct order as per handbook and discard- they are TTY bolts (Torque-To-Yield) and have to be replaced with new ones in order to get correct tension. Coat all bolts on re-assembly with suitable sealant, as some extend into water jacket.
Use zip-seal sandwich bags to hold nuts, bolts etc and LABEL EACH ONE CORRECTLY.
Use an engine crane or block and tackle and lift off the complete unit- much easier than trying to undo the inlet manifold bolts!!
NOW remove the engine breather pipe at the back of the engine and CLEAN thoroughly- it gets gummed up with old oil and dirt and turns to a jelly-like substance which will block the pipe completely. ALSO check the plastic water pipe that runs behind the engine for leaks, it gets hairline cracks- easier to replace at this point.
Standard procedure- while the head is off scrape carbon build-up off the piston tops and carefully blow clean- this willl help stop misfiring on an older engine.
Pull and check the water pump- replace the O-ring at the very least and clean all mating serfaces for a good seal on re-assembly. Standard procedure is to replace the water pump .
BE CAREFUL when undoing the fuel pipe from the regulator - use two spanners on the fitting as it can and will twist and cause a hairline crack at the braze point- a new one costs $200 AUS- also dont lose the O-ring off the fuel pipe, or you will have a fuel leak on re-assembly-AND be gentle when tightening up- or it WILL crack the braze.
While the head is off, check and replace the O-rings on the injectors- a major cause of Vacuum leaks
On re-assembly check all rubber hose connections- if they are old they can crack and cause a vaccum leak- this leads to incorrect idle. Also replace if the rubber is soft and doesnt return to shape when squished between the fingers.
.Use a can of Carby Clean to spray around a suspect leak point- idle should drop on application of the spray if there is a leak. Daewoo admit that the rubber used on the lanos range is dodgy!!
As you have everything off, replace the timing belt and tensioner pulleys and the cam seals,even if they arn't due to be replaced, the tensioner pulleys are renowned for exploding ( brittle plastic) causing the same problem as a busted belt- BENT VALVES.
On re-assembly, you can't get correct torque on the crank pulley without taking off the starter motor and jamming a big screwdriver in the ring gear, but very hard to get at on the 1600 twin cam, a little easier on the 1500 engine. Service manual states 95 Nm initial torque, then 30 degrees, then 15 degrees. Very difficult to do accurately, so just tighten as much as you can, use the rattle gun or the local mechanic to tighten to the marks we made in the beginning.
When replacing the side covers, bottom one first, leave it loose, as the top one needs some wiggling usually to get it into place for the bolts to go in. ALSO check you have the rubber seal placed correctly where the power steering lines exit the side of the cover, otherwise nothing fits properly.
Thats all I can think of at the moment- will add later if I think of anything else.
.
Lanos 1500 Rebuild because of "OIL SLUDGE"
A friend dropped his daughter's Lanos 1500 off the other week- it was not idling correctly, using lots of fuel, and sounded like "something was loose in the engine"
Pulled the Cam cover off and found what looked like oily oatmeal covering the valve springs, cam followers etc.
This car had not been serviced at the correct intervals, if at all!!!!
This was the oil sludge problem that has struck countless victims, from BMW, Volvo, Toyota and Korean cars.
Pulled the head, cleaned up the mess and found:
Cam oilways gummed up, cam was nearly dry and had ground down its lobes and the cam followers-
Haudraulic lifters jammed in the head by all the carp fishing, and of course they were gummed up and not working correctly.
Oilways in the head gummed up.
Pulled the sump and found 3 inches of thick, oily oatmeal type carp fishing in the bottom of the sump, which had to be scraped off with a small shovel, and the oil pump filter covered in carp fishing.
So, new Cam, new lifters and followers, head cleaned and soda blasted,
sump cleaned, oil pump pulled and cleaned, new gaskets, new timing belt and tensioner, new water pump.
So, $600 in parts later- when changing the oil more often would have solved the problem.
Now to put it all back together again.
Have been reading up on "oil sludge" and it is caused by NOT CHANGING THE OIL AT RECOMMENDED INTERVALS.
Because manufacturers have to meet much more stringent emmission laws now, they do it by running the engine hotter, diverting all the emmissions they can back into the engine, and using thinner oil .
This combination means that the oil breaks down more quickly, as it has to "hold" a larger proportion of emmission rubbish, at a greatly increased heat load, and the oil reaches a point that it can no longer work properly, causing it to turn to a sludge , which if left long enough cooks into a hard oatmeal type product.
The other problem is not changing the coolant at regular intervals, modern coolant breaks down and becomes negatively charged, causing the oil to break down even more quickly..
Because manufacturers want us to buy their cars, they increase the time between services, so that we think "this is a cheap car to run"
and then we leave it even longer between services, due to lack of money or time, so it is no wonder we are starting to see a lot of cars with this problem.
The oil companies recommend HALVING the recommended time between oil changes, and using a FULL SYNTHETIC OIL at the thinnest recommendation for your car.
I will be much more consious of changing the oil in my cars now, and really for $50 or so, what have you got to lose, except an engine??
I hope this has been useful to members on this forum.
Hi all
At last, i have fixed my high revs on my Lanos 1.6 year 2000
I have been trying to fix this problem for almost two years
i think my post will tell you what i have been doing to try to fix it.
Belive this or not i changed my battery, i had a green light on the top telling me the battery was fine, when i tested it one side of the battery was not holding a charge, changed the battery and for the last 6 months i have not had any high rev problems, goes straight to idle every time.
Test your battery or try a mates on your car to see if thats the problem
before buying a new one.
Hope this might help someone.
Chris
(29-09-2008 10:26 AM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]Engine Check Light Thread
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showt...p?tid=2334
A handy tip to check the CEL blink codes using the paperclip method. Thanks to another poster who posted this tip, you don’t need to mess about bending paperclips to fit the ALDL socket as a mini blade fuse fits nicely in place.
Check Engine Light and "random misfire" codes:
So, I posted this problem earlier - car running fantastic, no loss of power, no loss of acceleration, absolutely NO misfiring, no nothing. Yet the CEL would come on, then blink at speeds over 60 mph, then return to solid.... Error codes varied from random misfire (most persistent) to a faulty cat (after a new one put in!!!???).
I did a lot of reading on resetting the computer and finally managed to trick the computer into properly engaging sensors without tripping the CEL. How did I do that? Lots of patience! It paid off - my Lanos baby passed the emissions without a problem! Here's what it took:
Despite all the possible parts that would cause these error codes, I didn't replace anything except the rear cat that was shot even before I started this process! Didn't make sense at all because the car drove phenomenally well. Just disconnected the battery to erase memory, and reset the computer. Had to go through about 15 drive cycles until I managed NOT to trigger CEL! Daewoo doesn't have specified drive cycles, so it was a hit and miss process trying different styles of driving.
After disconnecting the battery this last time, I drove about 100 miles, slowly and carefully - realized that if I went 50 mph longer then 5 minutes, or drove over 50 mph even for a few minutes, it would trigger CEL. So I drove like an old granny, accelerating very slowly, getting to 35-40 mph, staying on the streets rather than on a highway. Did add a few short hwy miles about 3 times in the last 3 days - never staying on it for more than 5 minutes, and never going over 50 mph. No CEL!!! This morning went to a pre-test station to make sure all sensors engaged (they refused to do that several times and couldn't go through the emissions testing), and I had all but evap sensor on. Drove to emissions and passed!
So for everyone having this problem, this was the solution! Keep in mind:
IMPORTANT: NEVER accelerate quickly, NEVER reach high RPM, and NEVER drive over 50 mph and even when you do, do not do it for longer than 4-5 minutes, and NEVER press the gas pedal more than 1/3 of the way! I was pissing a lot of drivers off, but it worked and my car passed this morning! No engine light, no error codes, no nothing! However, it did take three attempts to get all required sensors to register! This was one VERY boring and nerve-wrecking week of driving!
So, before you spend any money on anything, try what I did - my mechanic said it
would be stupid to spend money fishing for problems and replacing "possible" culprits without trying to "trick" the computer first since it was obvious that car was performing beautifully!
And - this is THE FIRST problem I had with my Lanos in 10 years, except for timing belt breaking at 35K miles and screwing up the engine. All in warranty, got a new engine and that's IT!!! I LOVE my Daewoo!
Cut Wire's behind Headunit
Ok. When i recently bought my Daewoo Lanos the plugs behind the
head unit had been cut. To my surprise the person had left the plug
in the driver's door card. (Nice of him)
With a fair bit of electrical tape i managed to wire my head unit in.
Then the next problem came to say Hello.
No Dashboard Light's.
After a few day's pocking around i found the problem. The
Brown
wire behind the O'Glory headunit.
I found this picture on another forum (Same Car)
[img]
![[Image: NiceWiring.jpg]](http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee477/Lanos1point6/NiceWiring.jpg)
[/img]