(21-01-2008 09:55 PM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]had a problem with your car which you had problems sorting but got there in the end?
Post it here so others can maybe find a solution to a problem.
Please dont ask a question here though start a fresh thread for that.
Cheers Folks
i had a problem with my car cutting out and losing power, taken it to the garage on numerous occassions, they could never find the problem i replaced the leads and coil but to no avil the car still kept cutting out, then one day after reading how to do the idle procedure i looked at the fuses in the car and f6 was blown replaced it with a fuse from halfords for £2 and the problem in now sorted, to much for garages. x
(21-01-2008 09:55 PM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]had a problem with your car which you had problems sorting but got there in the end?
Post it here so others can maybe find a solution to a problem.
Please dont ask a question here though start a fresh thread for that.
Cheers Folks
i had a problem with my car cutting out and losing power, taken it to the garage on numerous occassions, they could never find the problem i replaced the leads and coil but to no avil the car still kept cutting out, then one day after reading how to do the idle procedure i looked at the fuses in the car and f6 was blown replaced it with a fuse from halfords for £2 and the problem in now sorted, so much for garages. x
(21-01-2008 10:09 PM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]Daewoo Matiz Stereo Removal
Right if the stereo you are removing is indeed a standard fitment then keys aint gona get it out, unless is been played about with.
So here is a step by spep guide to removing your stereo should take no more than 15 minutes although my guide looks like it should take longer I just wanted to cover everything for you.
1, you will need a cross head screwdriver & short finger nails not nice long pretty ones (trust me on the nails)
2, Now you should disconnect the battery but I never did when I worked in the workshop for Daewoo. Sit in drivers seat in car look at the dash directly in front of you, you will see 2 screws on dash under where speedo n fuel guage is (behind stalks) remove these then look above where instruments are on underside of dash remove these n take note that they are differnt to the other ones.
3,Look at back cubby hole under stereo you will find a screw back there aswell remove this screw.
4, Now starting around where instruments are you need to start pulling off dash face trim ( basically you are removing all of the black surround from dash from speedo to ashtray) you will find some resistance as there are clips also in use that will pop apart as you pull. Dont worry about pulling to hard just go slowly as these things are so strong work your way around the top pulling till all the dash is loosened. You will then need to disconnent secrurity LED heated glass n rear fog lamp switch
5, put dash trim onto back seat & get hold of screwdriver around remove the 2 screws that are holding the cage in around the stereo remove stereo disconnect it & then look at side of stereo/cage & you will find 2 screws 1 either side remove these then stereo will come out.
6, Swear curse then take a deep breath your on easy street.
7, Now im not gona try n teach you to suck eggs but please trust me n follow carefly.
8, place stereo into cage n screw into cage connect up all wiring and place stereo back into dash & lighly screw it in.
9, check stereo save a radio station works & then take keys out of stereo if its a Sony unit or any other it will need a permenant live to its memory which is usually indicated by unit beeping. Turn unit back on & you saved station should be there. If it is not & did not beep when key removed from ignition this easily sorted. On the wiring either from the stereo or the one you bought from fleabay there will be 2 wires that have push connectors on them just swap these 2 over & then try saving station again & all should work.
10, put car back together remembering which screws went where but leave the cubby hole one to last (DONT FORGET TO RECONNECT YOUR SWITCHES N IMMOBILISER FLASHY LIGHT)
11, Now Cubby hole screw remove ashtray n place fingers on the metal runner for ashtray whilst looking in cubby hole & you will see hole appearing where cubbyhole screw fixs 2.
12, Now you are done.
Original post by Bodie
Thanks very much for that. Very much appreciated. Will have a go at taking the radio out during the Easter break when I have more time to calm down after shouting at it if it all goes wrong!!
Cheers
Ken
Hi, following on from the great stereo removal guide just a quick addition if, like me you find the new head unit will not fit obviously into any of the fixings........ (T reg Matiz.)
I found that when I removed the original head unit that it was fixed in with two metal lugs that were actually riveted onto the unit. The cage on the new head unit (Kenwood) would not fit either the two slides inside the dash or the plastic instrument surround. I tried bending the key lugs on the Kenwood cage to see if I could make it secure. This worked but was too far back (it located on the two slides) to use as the main fitting point, still I thought it would secure the rear of the unit well enough.
I contacted the local Halfrauds who said they could get an adaptor cage in 4 days with the two lugs on; it costs 12.99 but they had had problems as the aftermarket stereo's they had tried it with just slid straight through. I popped in there anyway as I needed a wiring loom and the instrument surround was already off.
Buried among all of the other ICE bits and bobs they were selling a pack of 2 small L brackets with slots in them for fixing, so I thought it would be worth a try for 2.99. To my surprise they fitted perfectly with a couple of 10x13 flanged crosshead screws (also from Halfords) at the back of the slot, fixing them to the Kenwood's sides (the holes aligned perfectly.) The front part of the brackets can then be bent outward slightly to fit the pre existing holes in the Matiz dash. The fixing is quite secure once the screws are tightened up. The only warning is that putting the cage in that far back (depending how deep it is) has the potential to foul the controls for the fan direction and temperature if you are not careful.
(23-01-2008 07:11 PM)JohnRicketts Wrote: [ -> ]Engine check light...what does it mean?
Ok, here is the way to find out why your engine check light is on without spending money at the garage. It is relevent to the older style diagnostics sockets which have 12 pins and not to the standard 16 pin OBD11 sockets which I think are fitted to later models (but may be wrong).
So, first thing is to check the socket. It is located in the passenger footwell so move the seat back as far as possible, open the door, and lie on your back with your head in the footwell with a torch....its not very comfortable. Count the pin locations on the connector under the glove box. If it has 12 then carry on.
You will see with the torch that most locations in the connector do not actually have a pin in them. Only about 6 are used. In one corner, you will see 3 adjacent pins. Call them A,B,C. You need to get a piece of wire, and jam it into the socket to short pin A to C.
It is worth having a spare 10amp blade fuse just in case of problems. If you short A to B by mistake, then turn on the ignition, you will pop fuse 15 in the fuse box under the bonnet.
Ok, after making this link, turn on the ignition. Your engine check light will then start flashing at you. You need to count the flashes. 10 flashes means zero. Have a pen and paper handy and write them down as you count them.
The codes are 4 digits. After each code there is a longer pause. The sequence will be repeated 3 times. You can turn the ignition off and on again to repeat the operation if you missed a code.
Once you have written down the codes, you need to look them up in this chart to see what they mean (thanks to Bluecup for this info):-
0105 – Manifold air pressure sensor (MAP)
0110 – Manifold air temperature sensor (MAT)
0115 – Engine coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
0120 – Throttle position sensor (TPS)
0130 – Oxygen sensor circuit (EOC)
0201 – Injector cylinder #1 malfunction
0202 - Injector cylinder #2 malfunction
0203 - Injector cylinder #3 malfunction
0320 – Engine speed circuit malfunction
0325 – Knock sensor circuit malfunction
0340 – Camshaft position sensor malfunction
0350 – Ignition coil circuit malfunction
0400 – Exhaust gas recirculation flow (EGR)
0440 – Evaporative emission control system (EVAP)
0500 – vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
0505 – Idle air control system (IAC)
0560 – Battery voltage malfunction
0601 – ECM malfunction
1100 – A/F correction malfunction
1110 – Adaptive A/F correction malfunction
1500 – A/C evaporator thermistor malfunction
1510 – Main relay output malfunction
1600 – Immobilizer error (no answer)
1601 – Immobilizer error (incorrect answer)
1602 – Immobilizer error (ECM locked)
1610 – Main relay solenoid malfunction
1620 – A/C compressor relay malfunction
1630 – Low speed cooling fan relay malfunction (LS/FAN)
1631 – High speed cooling fan relay malfunction (HS/FAN)
Malfunction type:
1 – Short to battery / Short to ground / No singal
2 – Signal too high / Short to battery
3 – Signal too low / Short to ground
4 – No signal
5 – Signal incorrect
Note that sometimes you get "phantom" codes. For instance, my daughters Matiz gave an evaporator fault when it does not have air con! You can always try pulling fuse 15 for a couple of minutes then going for a drive before checking codes again (DON'T just disconnect the battery as you will then get an air-bag light which will need the garage to reset!). Don't forget to remove the link from the diagnostics socket! Good luck! Let us know your experiences!
Hello John,
While looking for some info on reading flashing error codes, I came across your post----and really useful it is too. You advised shorting Pins A &
C after which, when the ignition was turned on, the codes would start flashing.
I was about to start doing this when I came across the site below which advised connecting Pins A &
B.
http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm
Grateful if you could confirm that the Pins to be shorted are as you have advised.
Thanks & Regards,
Erich.
(27-02-2011 08:07 PM)erichans Wrote: [ -> ] (23-01-2008 07:11 PM)JohnRicketts Wrote: [ -> ]Engine check light...what does it mean?
Ok, here is the way to find out why your engine check light is on without spending money at the garage. It is relevent to the older style diagnostics sockets which have 12 pins and not to the standard 16 pin OBD11 sockets which I think are fitted to later models (but may be wrong).
So, first thing is to check the socket. It is located in the passenger footwell so move the seat back as far as possible, open the door, and lie on your back with your head in the footwell with a torch....its not very comfortable. Count the pin locations on the connector under the glove box. If it has 12 then carry on.
You will see with the torch that most locations in the connector do not actually have a pin in them. Only about 6 are used. In one corner, you will see 3 adjacent pins. Call them A,B,C. You need to get a piece of wire, and jam it into the socket to short pin A to C.
It is worth having a spare 10amp blade fuse just in case of problems. If you short A to B by mistake, then turn on the ignition, you will pop fuse 15 in the fuse box under the bonnet.
Ok, after making this link, turn on the ignition. Your engine check light will then start flashing at you. You need to count the flashes. 10 flashes means zero. Have a pen and paper handy and write them down as you count them.
The codes are 4 digits. After each code there is a longer pause. The sequence will be repeated 3 times. You can turn the ignition off and on again to repeat the operation if you missed a code.
Once you have written down the codes, you need to look them up in this chart to see what they mean (thanks to Bluecup for this info):-
0105 – Manifold air pressure sensor (MAP)
0110 – Manifold air temperature sensor (MAT)
0115 – Engine coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
0120 – Throttle position sensor (TPS)
0130 – Oxygen sensor circuit (EOC)
0201 – Injector cylinder #1 malfunction
0202 - Injector cylinder #2 malfunction
0203 - Injector cylinder #3 malfunction
0320 – Engine speed circuit malfunction
0325 – Knock sensor circuit malfunction
0340 – Camshaft position sensor malfunction
0350 – Ignition coil circuit malfunction
0400 – Exhaust gas recirculation flow (EGR)
0440 – Evaporative emission control system (EVAP)
0500 – vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
0505 – Idle air control system (IAC)
0560 – Battery voltage malfunction
0601 – ECM malfunction
1100 – A/F correction malfunction
1110 – Adaptive A/F correction malfunction
1500 – A/C evaporator thermistor malfunction
1510 – Main relay output malfunction
1600 – Immobilizer error (no answer)
1601 – Immobilizer error (incorrect answer)
1602 – Immobilizer error (ECM locked)
1610 – Main relay solenoid malfunction
1620 – A/C compressor relay malfunction
1630 – Low speed cooling fan relay malfunction (LS/FAN)
1631 – High speed cooling fan relay malfunction (HS/FAN)
Malfunction type:
1 – Short to battery / Short to ground / No singal
2 – Signal too high / Short to battery
3 – Signal too low / Short to ground
4 – No signal
5 – Signal incorrect
Note that sometimes you get "phantom" codes. For instance, my daughters Matiz gave an evaporator fault when it does not have air con! You can always try pulling fuse 15 for a couple of minutes then going for a drive before checking codes again (DON'T just disconnect the battery as you will then get an air-bag light which will need the garage to reset!). Don't forget to remove the link from the diagnostics socket! Good luck! Let us know your experiences!
Hello John,
While looking for some info on reading flashing error codes, I came across your post----and really useful it is too. You advised shorting Pins A & C after which, when the ignition was turned on, the codes would start flashing.
I was about to start doing this when I came across the site below which advised connecting Pins A & B.
http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm
Grateful if you could confirm that the Pins to be shorted are as you have advised.
Thanks & Regards,
Erich.
Sorry to interfere here, but its A & C (or 1 & 3) for Matiz. tied it myself and works well.
(28-02-2011 11:36 AM)shankosi Wrote: [ -> ] (27-02-2011 08:07 PM)erichans Wrote: [ -> ] (23-01-2008 07:11 PM)JohnRicketts Wrote: [ -> ]Engine check light...what does it mean?
Ok, here is the way to find out why your engine check light is on without spending money at the garage. It is relevent to the older style diagnostics sockets which have 12 pins and not to the standard 16 pin OBD11 sockets which I think are fitted to later models (but may be wrong).
So, first thing is to check the socket. It is located in the passenger footwell so move the seat back as far as possible, open the door, and lie on your back with your head in the footwell with a torch....its not very comfortable. Count the pin locations on the connector under the glove box. If it has 12 then carry on.
You will see with the torch that most locations in the connector do not actually have a pin in them. Only about 6 are used. In one corner, you will see 3 adjacent pins. Call them A,B,C. You need to get a piece of wire, and jam it into the socket to short pin A to C.
It is worth having a spare 10amp blade fuse just in case of problems. If you short A to B by mistake, then turn on the ignition, you will pop fuse 15 in the fuse box under the bonnet.
Ok, after making this link, turn on the ignition. Your engine check light will then start flashing at you. You need to count the flashes. 10 flashes means zero. Have a pen and paper handy and write them down as you count them.
The codes are 4 digits. After each code there is a longer pause. The sequence will be repeated 3 times. You can turn the ignition off and on again to repeat the operation if you missed a code.
Once you have written down the codes, you need to look them up in this chart to see what they mean (thanks to Bluecup for this info):-
0105 – Manifold air pressure sensor (MAP)
0110 – Manifold air temperature sensor (MAT)
0115 – Engine coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
0120 – Throttle position sensor (TPS)
0130 – Oxygen sensor circuit (EOC)
0201 – Injector cylinder #1 malfunction
0202 - Injector cylinder #2 malfunction
0203 - Injector cylinder #3 malfunction
0320 – Engine speed circuit malfunction
0325 – Knock sensor circuit malfunction
0340 – Camshaft position sensor malfunction
0350 – Ignition coil circuit malfunction
0400 – Exhaust gas recirculation flow (EGR)
0440 – Evaporative emission control system (EVAP)
0500 – vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
0505 – Idle air control system (IAC)
0560 – Battery voltage malfunction
0601 – ECM malfunction
1100 – A/F correction malfunction
1110 – Adaptive A/F correction malfunction
1500 – A/C evaporator thermistor malfunction
1510 – Main relay output malfunction
1600 – Immobilizer error (no answer)
1601 – Immobilizer error (incorrect answer)
1602 – Immobilizer error (ECM locked)
1610 – Main relay solenoid malfunction
1620 – A/C compressor relay malfunction
1630 – Low speed cooling fan relay malfunction (LS/FAN)
1631 – High speed cooling fan relay malfunction (HS/FAN)
Malfunction type:
1 – Short to battery / Short to ground / No singal
2 – Signal too high / Short to battery
3 – Signal too low / Short to ground
4 – No signal
5 – Signal incorrect
Note that sometimes you get "phantom" codes. For instance, my daughters Matiz gave an evaporator fault when it does not have air con! You can always try pulling fuse 15 for a couple of minutes then going for a drive before checking codes again (DON'T just disconnect the battery as you will then get an air-bag light which will need the garage to reset!). Don't forget to remove the link from the diagnostics socket! Good luck! Let us know your experiences!
Hello John,
While looking for some info on reading flashing error codes, I came across your post----and really useful it is too. You advised shorting Pins A & C after which, when the ignition was turned on, the codes would start flashing.
I was about to start doing this when I came across the site below which advised connecting Pins A & B.
http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm
Grateful if you could confirm that the Pins to be shorted are as you have advised.
Thanks & Regards,
Erich.
Sorry to interfere here, but its A & C (or 1 & 3) for Matiz. tied it myself and works well.
Thanks Shankosi,
Great you tried this and it works. Peace of mind restored! Just out of curiosity, I wondered where John originally got this info?
Erich.
this info is mentioned in a lot places around this forum, also it is mentioned in the service manual.
Hello
I have recently changed the head on my wife's 1999 Matiz. It needed changing due to leaking water pump>overheating>siezing>cambelt snapped!!
When we got it home I turned it over by hand, no bad noises but no compression. After inital fears of working on a modern engine with injection (previous experience only on good old fashioned carbs and distributors with a coil and contact breakers). I decided to have a go.
The following are just some of the difficulties I found which they don't tell you about in the manuals and learnt the hard way.
1. Although the manual has sections missing, print off the diagrams of the various section component locator diagrams which shows what goes where. The one's I printed were:
Cylinder Head
Manifold and airflow system
Timing belt & engine mount
Engine harness Routing
Coolant hose and components
Even if you mark everthing and take pictures you can still get lost.
2. The electrical harness connectors to all of the sensors are all different so you don't have to worry to much about getting wrong.
3. Do take the driver side headlight off and take out the battery this gives a lot of room.
4 When removing parts always replace the bolts and nuts so you don't loose them in the bit box.
5 When removing the camshaft pulley do not wedge with a screwdiver on the bolts holding the rear timing cover. There is a hole in the camshaft between the front of the head and the first rocker. Use this to lock the camshaft.
6 To remove the crankshaft pulley find the slot in the engine underneath towards the front at the gearbox end. Put a small screwdriver in the slot and it locks the crankshaft.
7 When you buy a head gasket set they will not include all of the gaskets you will need. Have a tube of instant gasket ready.
8 When you buy a new cylinder head it will not have the studs fitted. Buy new from e-bay. You will have to cut them to length so remove sample ones from the old head before you send it back.
9 Who ever invented the hose clips used by Daewoo should be shot. My knuckles are only now healing. Replace with terry clips, if not make sure you can remove the clips with pliers easily for the future.
10 If you ever have to remove/fit the distributor case with the head on the engine, buy a cheap 10mm open ended spanner, not one of the polish chome types. Put it in a vice and bend it to about 45 degrees. This will allow you to get to the nuts under the housing.
11 The rocker box cover two rear bolts are difficult to get access to. For the middle one I used a straight allen key with extensions to go through the inlet manifold. The rear right bolt is the most difficult use an angled allen to lossen then use an allen key bit in a electric screwdriver bit holder to undo.
12 Use 3/8th and 1/4 inch socket set with different extensions. My old 1/2 inch drive set was almost useless.
13 When replacing the cambelt don't be tempted to turn the camshaft/crankshaft using the camshaft nut although it is easier to get at. It can slip the belt especially if the tensioner is not tightened. Also when fitting the cambelt the crankshaft pulley is pushed fully back on the shaft. If not the when turning the crankshaft the belt can start to come off.
14 After the car back and running, plan to change the oil and coolant after about a month.
Hope this helps
(22-02-2008 10:02 AM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]Window Winder Removal non model specific
Been asked this afew times so added to tech page for all to see
have winder pointing down then what you need is a piece of metal with a very small hook on it ( I have a file which I removed handle & bent the end where the handle was I bent the last 2mm & bent it 90 degrees) tuck it in behind winder & door card/cover & you will find a horse shoe clip attaching winder handle to winder mech. Place your other hand above the winder handle & gently pull it up it will come flicking off hence other hand over the top. Winder handle then comes off with no probs.
I also used a file as it aided grip whilst gently pulling it upwards once it had hooked clip!
Here's a image
Holdenpaedia permalink of the actual tool I purchased years ago. Very usefull and I always reach for it whatever Make/Model. I definatley agree with covering the handle to catch the
Spring clip (many times spent wasting time searching the surrounding area for a *into-orbit* retainer
)
[ [//holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php?title=Image:IM000392_0.JPG&oldid=21766]]
Hi all.
I've recently changed the front brake discs on my daughters 2002 matiz & this is how I removed the discs.
With the car on the ground undo the driveshaft hub nut. It is very tight & it is probably best to use a 3/4" drive socket. You can easily break 1/2" drive ratchets or T-bars.
With the nut loose jack up the side of the car you are working on & secure the car, remove the wheel.
Undo the four bolts around the hub, this can be done easier with somebody pressing the brake.
Remove the pads, caliper & carrier & completely remove the previously slackened hub nut.
I then got two large screwdrivers & placed one each side of the hub jamming them in between the hub & the brake disc.
Pull the two screwdrivers backward & forward until the gap opens up big enough to use small crowbars instead of screwdrivers.
Work the crowbars in the same way using jerking movements, the space between hub & disc will get gradually bigger. Watch where the ends of the crowbars are levering against, as the bearing comes out you don't want to damage it.
Place something under the hub (I folded up an old sheet) to catch it when it comes out, it tends to go suddenly.
Once the hub is out remove the old disc & replace it with the new one. Put a bit of HMP grease on the driveshaft splines, I also put a bit extra around the lip of the steering knuckle, where the bearing came out.
Push the hub back where it came from, keeping it in line & give the hub a few taps with a mallet until there is enough driveshaft thread showing to get the driveshaft nut on a few turns.
As you tighten the nut up it will draw the bearing back into the steering knuckle. You might need to put a bar across the wheel studs to stop the hub from turning.
It is then just a reversal of what you have already done to put everything back.
I haven't gone into fine detail about a lot of the work, the main problem with this job is getting the discs off. I'd assume anybody attempting this would be able to change pads & there is plenty of info out there about most of the work.
Do use thread locking fluid on relevant bolts & maybe get new driveshaft hub nuts which should be tightened to the correct torque.
There is no need to split any ball joints or to remove the steering knuckle. No press needed, special tools or pullers.
Good luck.
(29-03-2009 09:38 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote: [ -> ]Alternator failed last week. Before buying a new one check the prices out because they are expensive and go for anywhere between £85 and £160. Got mine for £85 off ebay.
This job is not for the faint hearted as it is a pig. The engineer that put the alternator where it is needs to be shot. The alternator is located at the back, left, bottom, looking at the engine.
Before you start you need a short 50mm (2inch) socket extension or a small socket set. If the battery is flat charge it fully before doing this job.
I put the car up on ramps because you have to do the job underneath the car.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and tuck the lead down the side to avoid it touching. Slacken off the tensioner bolt on the alternator and pull the alternator forward to slacken the belt. Now go under the car. Disconnect the main charge cable by lifting the insulating flap and unscrewing the nut (there is a second thinner double cable that comes off later). Keep the nut and washer safe as you need it again. Now remove the 2 bolts securing the alternator body to the engine mount (12mm) below the alternator.
Remove the big bolt securing the engine mount bracket to the big rubber bush (17mm). Now comes the fun part. The engine mount bracket needs to be removed from the side of the block to get the alternator out. There are 3 bolts. 2 at the bottom are clearly visible and easy to remove (12mm). The third is the pig and requires the short socket extension. This is situated above the left arm of the engine mount and is not clearly visible. You need to get the socket in there and slowly loosen it. There is not much room to move the wrench and it takes a while. Once that is removed you can slip the bracket out. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley. Take the tensioner bolt out at the top and you can now turn the alternator upwards and slip it down. You need a flat bladed screw driver at this point to slip under the clip on the plug for the second set of wires out of the housing on the alternator to remove it.
Push the new unit up through the gap with the pulley uppermost. Get someone to help, as you need to attach it to the tensioner rail to keep it out of the way. Hold it up and get the other person to hand tighten the bolt through the tensioner rail.
Put the long bolt through the engine mount and the rubber bush and hand tighten the nut. Get the 2 lower bolts and push them through the mount and get them to bite into the holes in the block. Now put in the top bolt. Tighten the upper left and lower right bolts then the lower left. Remember to attach the earth cable on the lower left bolt. Now tighten the big bolt through the bush. You can now bolt the alternator body to the engine mount. Push the clip connector with the 2 wires into the housing of the alternator making sure the clip is at the top and that it clicks home. Now attach the thick single cable. Now you can go up above and slip the belt on to the pulley and tension the belt. Allow about about half an inch of play in the belt when depressed. Tighten the tensioner bolt. Now put back the lead to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine. If you have a volt meter then it should read between 13 - 14.5V across the battery terminals with moderate engine revs.
If you are short on patience don't try this at home. Am sure the neighbours learnt some new words today.
Thanks for that one now i know what a pain in the <word your neighbor learned> its going to be :/
![[Image: anim_f4e21c4e-e141-33a4-4921-b23005eb4667.gif]](http://gickr.com/results/anim_f4e21c4e-e141-33a4-4921-b23005eb4667.gif)