Daewoo Chevrolet Forums and Owners Club

had a problem with your car which you had problems sorting but got there in the end?

Post it here so others can maybe find a solution to a problem.
Please dont ask a question here though start a fresh thread for that.

Cheers Folks

Daewoo Matiz Stereo Removal

Right if the stereo you are removing is indeed a standard fitment then keys aint gona get it out, unless is been played about with.

So here is a step by spep guide to removing your stereo should take no more than 15 minutes although my guide looks like it should take longer I just wanted to cover everything for you.

1, you will need a cross head screwdriver & short finger nails not nice long pretty ones (trust me on the nails)

2, Now you should disconnect the battery but I never did when I worked in the workshop for Daewoo. Sit in drivers seat in car look at the dash directly in front of you, you will see 2 screws on dash under where speedo n fuel guage is (behind stalks) remove these then look above where instruments are on underside of dash remove these n take note that they are differnt to the other ones.

3,Look at back cubby hole under stereo you will find a screw back there aswell remove this screw.

4, Now starting around where instruments are you need to start pulling off dash face trim ( basically you are removing all of the black surround from dash from speedo to ashtray) you will find some resistance as there are clips also in use that will pop apart as you pull. Dont worry about pulling to hard just go slowly as these things are so strong work your way around the top pulling till all the dash is loosened. You will then need to disconnent secrurity LED heated glass n rear fog lamp switch

5, put dash trim onto back seat & get hold of screwdriver around remove the 2 screws that are holding the cage in around the stereo remove stereo disconnect it & then look at side of stereo/cage & you will find 2 screws 1 either side remove these then stereo will come out.

6, Swear curse then take a deep breath your on easy street.

7, Now im not gona try n teach you to suck eggs but please trust me n follow carefly.

8, place stereo into cage n screw into cage connect up all wiring and place stereo back into dash & lighly screw it in.

9, check stereo save a radio station works & then take keys out of stereo if its a Sony unit or any other it will need a permenant live to its memory which is usually indicated by unit beeping. Turn unit back on & you saved station should be there. If it is not & did not beep when key removed from ignition this easily sorted. On the wiring either from the stereo or the one you bought from fleabay there will be 2 wires that have push connectors on them just swap these 2 over & then try saving station again & all should work.

10, put car back together remembering which screws went where but leave the cubby hole one to last (DONT FORGET TO RECONNECT YOUR SWITCHES N IMMOBILISER FLASHY LIGHT)

11, Now Cubby hole screw remove ashtray n place fingers on the metal runner for ashtray whilst looking in cubby hole & you will see hole appearing where cubbyhole screw fixs 2.

12, Now you are done.


Original post by Bodie

Engine check light...what does it mean?

Ok, here is the way to find out why your engine check light is on without spending money at the garage. It is relevent to the older style diagnostics sockets which have 12 pins and not to the standard 16 pin OBD11 sockets which I think are fitted to later models (but may be wrong).

So, first thing is to check the socket. It is located in the passenger footwell so move the seat back as far as possible, open the door, and lie on your back with your head in the footwell with a torch....its not very comfortable. Count the pin locations on the connector under the glove box. If it has 12 then carry on.

You will see with the torch that most locations in the connector do not actually have a pin in them. Only about 6 are used. In one corner, you will see 3 adjacent pins. Call them A,B,C. You need to get a piece of wire, and jam it into the socket to short pin A to C.

It is worth having a spare 10amp blade fuse just in case of problems. If you short A to B by mistake, then turn on the ignition, you will pop fuse 15 in the fuse box under the bonnet.

Ok, after making this link, turn on the ignition. Your engine check light will then start flashing at you. You need to count the flashes. 10 flashes means zero. Have a pen and paper handy and write them down as you count them.

The codes are 4 digits. After each code there is a longer pause. The sequence will be repeated 3 times. You can turn the ignition off and on again to repeat the operation if you missed a code.

Once you have written down the codes, you need to look them up in this chart to see what they mean (thanks to Bluecup for this info):-

0105 – Manifold air pressure sensor (MAP)
0110 – Manifold air temperature sensor (MAT)
0115 – Engine coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
0120 – Throttle position sensor (TPS)
0130 – Oxygen sensor circuit (EOC)
0201 – Injector cylinder #1 malfunction
0202 - Injector cylinder #2 malfunction
0203 - Injector cylinder #3 malfunction
0320 – Engine speed circuit malfunction
0325 – Knock sensor circuit malfunction
0340 – Camshaft position sensor malfunction
0350 – Ignition coil circuit malfunction
0400 – Exhaust gas recirculation flow (EGR)
0440 – Evaporative emission control system (EVAP)
0500 – vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
0505 – Idle air control system (IAC)
0560 – Battery voltage malfunction
0601 – ECM malfunction
1100 – A/F correction malfunction
1110 – Adaptive A/F correction malfunction
1500 – A/C evaporator thermistor malfunction
1510 – Main relay output malfunction
1600 – Immobilizer error (no answer)
1601 – Immobilizer error (incorrect answer)
1602 – Immobilizer error (ECM locked)
1610 – Main relay solenoid malfunction
1620 – A/C compressor relay malfunction
1630 – Low speed cooling fan relay malfunction (LS/FAN)
1631 – High speed cooling fan relay malfunction (HS/FAN)
Malfunction type:
1 – Short to battery / Short to ground / No singal
2 – Signal too high / Short to battery
3 – Signal too low / Short to ground
4 – No signal
5 – Signal incorrect

Note that sometimes you get "phantom" codes. For instance, my daughters Matiz gave an evaporator fault when it does not have air con! You can always try pulling fuse 15 for a couple of minutes then going for a drive before checking codes again (DON'T just disconnect the battery as you will then get an air-bag light which will need the garage to reset!). Don't forget to remove the link from the diagnostics socket! Good luck! Let us know your experiences!

Window Winder Removal non model specific

Been asked this afew times so added to tech page for all to see

have winder pointing down then what you need is a piece of metal with a very small hook on it ( I have a file which I removed handle & bent the end where the handle was I bent the last 2mm & bent it 90 degrees) tuck it in behind winder & door card/cover & you will find a horse shoe clip attaching winder handle to winder mech. Place your other hand above the winder handle & gently pull it up it will come flicking off hence other hand over the top. Winder handle then comes off with no probs.



I also used a file as it aided grip whilst gently pulling it upwards once it had hooked clip!

ECU ECM reset
am sure its ef4 & ef19 fuse box in engine compartment (best check on link below on fuse locations)

pull fuses out turn key to on position ( all lights will be on if you have gone far enough) foot on brake stay like this for two minutes turn ignition off replace fuses and then onto the next stage




Click here for online manual





Idle Learn Procedure


Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
Turn the ignition OFF for 5 seconds.
Start the engine in park/neutral.
Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 185° F (85°C ).
Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete.

Matiz gearboxes are not reknown for the slickest of changes, so after getting ear ache from 'er indoors about 1st gear being hard to get and 1st to 2nd being notchy I investigated an alternative gearbox oil and discovered Castrol SMX-S which was specially developed for problem gearboxes. A quick change of oil to the SMX-S and the gear change was transformed!

When changing the oil, unless you have access to a pit the best way is to park the car on level ground, then get the car up on ramps, remove the sump guard, place a drain tray under the gearbox and remove the drain plug and refill / level plug and allow the oil to drain.

To refill the gearbox obtain approx 1metre of half inch bore plastic pipe and feed this up through the engine bay to the top, make sure the pipe has not got any dirt on it and then put the bottom end of the pipe in the filler hole. Replace the drain plug and roll the car back off the ramps, (don't forget to move the drain tray out of the way!!)

Using a funnel in the top of the plastic pipe fill the gearbox with SMX-S until it starts to run out of the filler / level plug

Remove the hose then reach under the car and replace the filler / level plug (finger tight will do for now)

Get the car back up on the ramps and fully tighten the filler / level plug, then replace the sump guard

After a few days use you should find a vast improvement in the quality of gearchange!!

Dodge

Engine Check Light Thread
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showt...p?tid=2334

Inlet Manifold Cure Thread:
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showt...p?tid=2388

Problem
2001 Matiz 800cc
I was driving home tonight and all of a sudden I lost power and the warning light came on the dash (flashing).
I could drive the car but it sounds lumpy almost like it is running on 2 cylinders.
It took 30sec to get 50mph & no power to get up hills.
It starts ok, idles ok but not right! it will rev ok! again bit not right.







20min Fix

1. Took injector rail off and checked No. 3 injector.
2. Injector was blocked, cleaned out with air hose & WD40
3. Swaped with No.2
4. Put back together
5. Working fine.
6. Cleared engine light with £50 code reader.
7. [/u]All fixed.

Was cause but buying car of old person who kept car fuel tank full.
I let it get near to empty plus putting my foot down a bit more, caused the no.3 injector to get blocked
plus it is the last one on the rail.

Hope this help anyone else who has this problem.
Thanks

Gavin

The cause of rattle often is the backplate of the diskpads
when the front pad area wears out, it causes loose packing of the whole assembly

here are few measures you should take

1) bend the copper clip slightly inwards to retain tension and grip
2) Apply greese to the back of the pads upon the metallic covers
3) apply grease to the pins holding the assembly

I have also posted this procedure with pictures at this location:-

Resolving rattle from front brakes Matiz

Alternator failed last week. Before buying a new one check the prices out because they are expensive and go for anywhere between £85 and £160. Got mine for £85 off ebay.

This job is not for the faint hearted as it is a pig. The engineer that put the alternator where it is needs to be shot. The alternator is located at the back, left, bottom, looking at the engine.

Before you start you need a short 50mm (2inch) socket extension or a small socket set. If the battery is flat charge it fully before doing this job.

I put the car up on ramps because you have to do the job underneath the car.

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and tuck the lead down the side to avoid it touching. Slacken off the tensioner bolt on the alternator and pull the alternator forward to slacken the belt. Now go under the car. Disconnect the main charge cable by lifting the insulating flap and unscrewing the nut (there is a second thinner double cable that comes off later). Keep the nut and washer safe as you need it again. Now remove the 2 bolts securing the alternator body to the engine mount (12mm) below the alternator.

Remove the big bolt securing the engine mount bracket to the big rubber bush (17mm). Now comes the fun part. The engine mount bracket needs to be removed from the side of the block to get the alternator out. There are 3 bolts. 2 at the bottom are clearly visible and easy to remove (12mm). The third is the pig and requires the short socket extension. This is situated above the left arm of the engine mount and is not clearly visible. You need to get the socket in there and slowly loosen it. There is not much room to move the wrench and it takes a while. Once that is removed you can slip the bracket out. Slip the belt off the alternator pulley. Take the tensioner bolt out at the top and you can now turn the alternator upwards and slip it down. You need a flat bladed screw driver at this point to slip under the clip on the plug for the second set of wires out of the housing on the alternator to remove it.

Push the new unit up through the gap with the pulley uppermost. Get someone to help, as you need to attach it to the tensioner rail to keep it out of the way. Hold it up and get the other person to hand tighten the bolt through the tensioner rail.

Put the long bolt through the engine mount and the rubber bush and hand tighten the nut. Get the 2 lower bolts and push them through the mount and get them to bite into the holes in the block. Now put in the top bolt. Tighten the upper left and lower right bolts then the lower left. Remember to attach the earth cable on the lower left bolt. Now tighten the big bolt through the bush. You can now bolt the alternator body to the engine mount. Push the clip connector with the 2 wires into the housing of the alternator making sure the clip is at the top and that it clicks home. Now attach the thick single cable. Now you can go up above and slip the belt on to the pulley and tension the belt. Allow about about half an inch of play in the belt when depressed. Tighten the tensioner bolt. Now put back the lead to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine. If you have a volt meter then it should read between 13 - 14.5V across the battery terminals with moderate engine revs.

If you are short on patience don't try this at home. Am sure the neighbours learnt some new words today.

Problem: High Lambda, high CO2

despite replacing mid and rear sections of exhaust (rust), retest failed due to high Lambda and high CO2.

High Lambda resolved by repairing pin hole in new part of exhaust, and properly gunking exhaust joints.

High CO2 resolved by unblocking one of the two vacuum pipes connected to the underside of the throttle body.

I read a post from someone who had had trouble with their inertia switch going off (located next to the passenger seat). As I once worked for a company that made these switches, I thought I would shed a bit more light on them.

The inertia switch is designed to reduce risk of a fire by turning off the fuel pump in the event of a crash. If a fuel line is severed, the pump will not continue to spray petrol onto hot engine parts or shorting electrical components.

It works by having a steel ball retained in a conical seat by a magnet. If the shock load on the ball exceeds the pull of the magnet, the ball will leave its seat and knock open sprung contacts above it. The switch can be reset by pushing on the rubber boot over the contacts.

After manufacture, the switch is tested for two values. Firstly, the maximum G load which it will resist actuating, and secondly the minimum value at which it will actuate.

A couple of points are worth noting:

1. The strength (charge) of the magnet is set at the factory, to suit the vehicle to which it is fitted. A small car, such as a Matiz, would have a stronger magnet charge than, say, a Jaguar; as the Matiz is likely to experience greater shocks due to its light weight & small wheels. If you did decide to replace the switch for any reason, make sure it is intended for a Matiz.

2. Fitting lower profile tyres will give a stiffer ride, and could just conceivably cause the switch to operate if you went over a large enough pothole.

Re :give us your technical answers please.

*Distributer replacement*

Tuesday My 2000 W Reg Matiz developed a Misfire.
This went from a Nasty Popping and Juddering to complete failure to start.

My first thoughts turned to the Ignition dizzy cap leads coil etc etc.so before buying everything
I Phoned up My local dealer and asked their service department, what their thoughts were regarding my problem?

Turns out the the distributer has a optical sensor inside it.no crank sensor.and is Generally Known as the cause of the misfires,much more often thean cracked leads or dizzy cap coil etc.

So i ordered a Brand new one from ebay costing £93 pounds warrantied for 3 years bargain i thought !!


It Arrived today so i got Right down to fitting it! which is as follows.


1.remove the air filter and induction pipe-

easy two 10mm bolts hold it to the front panel and 2 jubilee clips hold on the pipe(if you have a snorkel it has one 10mm bolt holding it on).also remove the sensor that is cliped to the box..loosen and pull out and up the complete airbox and snorkel assembly.

2. Remove the coil lead first from the centre of the dizzy and move it up and away towards the coil, the optical sensor lead that sits on the top of the dizzy unclip and move to one side.

3.Remove the dizzy itself!!

there are 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the engine block they are 12mm one at the top and one at the bottom.
make sure you take notice of the placement of the dizzy at this time (you want the dizzy to go back in the correct position )all i did was mark the engine housing and the washer under the bolt that holds the dizzy to the block with a simple line in marker pen.remove the two bolts and wiggle the dizzy free(leaving all the remaining plug leads on the dizzy cap,this is so you can transfer them to the new one, with the minimum of fuss)there will be a little dribble of oil from the block but dont worry just mop it up lol.

4.replacement
dizzy off!! easy!! now just put the new dizzy back in and push it in so it meets up with the block, (Make sure the sensor block connector is facing upwards this will ensure u are refitting it the correct way) put the bolts in and line up the lines you marked and tighten up the bolts.

5.transfer the leads over ....

on the the dizzy cap there is a number one etched on the cap, this is for plug lead number one to fit on.
the firing order is 1-3-2 in an anti clockwise direction.. so pop the leads on in that order...clip back on the sensor to the dizzy and the coil lead all sorted

replace the airbox induction pipe tighten everything back up and give it a whirl!!!

This fixed my misfire and non strating issue instantly and the car is running lovely again..timing is pot on so i dont even need to redo it..

Hope this little guide helps

Thanks Darren.