Daewoo Chevrolet Forums and Owners Club

Full Version: Give Us Your Technical Answers Please
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
had a problem with your car which you had problems sorting but got there in the end?

Post it here so others can maybe find a solution to a problem.
Please dont ask a question here though start a fresh thread for that.

Cheers Folks
This link i think is an American one, but it has some interesting repair hints for Leganza's.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/FAQ/913
thanks to kevatt for this 1Thumbsup


Quote:fan blower, ac, gear shift solanoid SORTED

1ST speacial thanx to nelse for his advice via pm and any other person that helped me.

thought i would post my results as it may help someone else
My problem was auto gear shift was locked, and i had lost radio amp, clock, blower and all the ac stuff, i was given advice on looking for a earth splice that apparently are prone to problems i had problems finding this splice, but found it in the end on my R reg laganza the splice has about 10 - 20 wires going to it and all the wires are black or green (just to make sure you got the right spice do a contanuity test on it) on my car i found this to be ok, i had already checked all the fuses and the relays and all were ok,

so this is wat i did i found that if you run a length of cable inserted into the neg side of the fan motor plug and run it to a nice peice of grounded metal hay presto all came back this was at first a test and i found that when i turned the fan on the clock went out so i ran a second earth from the neg side of the solinoid on the gear shift lever making sure they both were quality connections and now the car is good as new only had to take the glove box out which was not that difficult did the wire up and put it back together , on the gear lever you just need to carfully prise up the gear lever selection trim to expose the wireing you need the connection you need is the one that if it has not been tamperd with is the cable that appears to be short if you look carefully you will notice a retaing clip that once released will allow you more access to the cable that goes to the solinoid the cable you need to work with is the green one in a white plastic tee shaped connctor( once again check to make sure you are on the right cable) and thats it

ps if you do a volts check using the original loom you may find differing voltages i had between 6.40 - 5.93 but once you add the addition earth the volts shoot up to normal 12.64 and the fan will work, obviously its an earthing issue but it is an inexpensive get out that is safe and should not effect the emc unit

any way its been a trying day but it ended up great thanx again for all who helped.
Oil light coming on after high revs or whilst driving, often accompanied by tappet noise and oil leaks from camshaft cover gasket; engine will run fine again if turned off for a short while:

On my engine, the oil was being pumped up top fine but wasn't draining back into the sump quick enough. The fix involved removing the head and clearing out all the oil drain holes in the block and the head (a length of stiff wire will do for this - do your best impression of DynoRod!). You may also want to remove the sump and clear the pickup strainer, which is likely clogged with all sorts of crud, and switching to a lighter grade of oil (e.g. 5W-30) can also help. The sump gasket from a Vauxhall C20 engine fits and the head uses mainly X20 parts.


Engine stutters at high revs, loses power, clouds of smoke out the exhaust:

There is a well know problem with the breather system on the X20 heads, which can allow oil to be sucked into the intake at high revs through the breather pipes. Lots of people have simply disconnected the larger pipe and directed it into a bottle to catch the oil, however, removing the camshaft cover and drilling several holes in the underside (in the breather tract you'll see connecting the opposite corners of the camshaft cover) but away from the breather pipe connections should also solve it.

Darren
My daewoo has had a hard yr but one thing we learned was once the battery is unhooked for a certain amt. of time you need to reprogram your idle by doing a 12 step process that takes a whole 3 minutes and wa la it runs and idles again. My car ran great it just wouldnt idle. When you took your foot off the gas it would just stall and die. It took us a month to figure it out. We didnt change any parts just followed the "turn key on for 5 sec. turn key off 10 sec. Turn on put in drive put a/c on,ect.. Low and behold it idled.
I'm having a problem with my Korando 3.2 engine,the 4wd check light is always on and don't know what's the problem.
Here's what i did,Check the 4*4 sensor switch in the gearbox.If the light goes off when removing the wires,the switch is faulty.
If light stays on,you'll test the wrong switch or the circuitry is short-circuited.
(07-11-2009 09:25 AM)lovely09 Wrote: [ -> ]I'm having a problem with my Korando 3.2 engine,the 4wd check light is always on and don't know what's the problem.
Here's what i did,Check the 4*4 sensor switch in the gearbox.If the light goes off when removing the wires,the switch is faulty.
If light stays on,you'll test the wrong switch or the circuitry is short-circuited.

Wrong ForumUgly this is the Leganza oneSurrender
(21-01-2008 10:00 PM)Bodie Wrote: [ -> ]had a problem with your car which you had problems sorting but got there in the end?

Post it here so others can maybe find a solution to a problem.
Please dont ask a question here though start a fresh thread for that.

Cheers Folks "I need help to change the heater core on my Leganza 1999.
Reference URL's