Hi everyone,
We have a 99 Matiz 800cc that my wife as been driveing for 4 years. Its had a noise from the front drivers side but recently passed MOT with this - The noise only comes on with lock to the left. I did see if there was any play in the drive shaft when changing a caliper recently and did find that there was a little - Reading the forums though I am thinking maybe wheelbearing on this 40k miles car - I know I need to jack the car up and try moveing the wheel side to side but any ideas ?

If it has been through MOT recently they should have checked play in the suspension.

If the sound is a grinding sound then it is likely to be bearing but if the noise is a clunking sound it could be a worn CV joint.

(20-02-2010 06:31 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  If it has been through MOT recently they should have checked play in the suspension.

If the sound is a grinding sound then it is likely to be bearing but if the noise is a clunking sound it could be a worn CV joint.

Thanks - Any instrucrions on changing the Wheel Bearing ?

Front wheel bearings are difficult to replace for the ordinary diy mechanic in these cars as the hub has to be separated. Separating the hub really requires a hydraulic press and tool. You can save some money by removing the stub axle carrier and taking it to the agent. If you are going this route check the disc as it may pay to replace the disc at the same time. Get the spares off fleabay they're a lot cheaper than spares/agents.

(22-02-2010 04:02 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  Front wheel bearings are difficult to replace for the ordinary diy mechanic in these cars as the hub has to be separated. Separating the hub really requires a hydraulic press and tool. You can save some money by removing the stub axle carrier and taking it to the agent. If you are going this route check the disc as it may pay to replace the disc at the same time. Get the spares off fleabay they're a lot cheaper than spares/agents.

I am think its infact the CV joint I get the rattle all the time on left lock (sounds like bearing dropping)- Its been some time since I changed a driveshaft last one on a Lancia Prisma years ago wasnt to bad to do on that one - Looking at the Matiz the inner end looks well under the engine and difficult to get at (not to keen on getting under cars) - Any pointers on getting it off - Can you re use the ball joint on the track rod end again and how diffult to split the outer part from the hub ?

Thanks

(22-02-2010 04:02 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  Front wheel bearings are difficult to replace for the ordinary diy mechanic in these cars as the hub has to be separated. Separating the hub really requires a hydraulic press and tool. You can save some money by removing the stub axle carrier and taking it to the agent. If you are going this route check the disc as it may pay to replace the disc at the same time. Get the spares off fleabay they're a lot cheaper than spares/agents.

am think its infact the CV joint I get the rattle all the time on left lock (sounds like bearing dropping)- Its been some time since I changed a driveshaft last one on a Lancia Prisma year ago wasnt to bad to do on that one - Looking at the Matiz the inner end looks well under the engine and difficult to get at (not to keen on getting under cars) - Any pointers on getting it off - Can you re use the ball joint on the track rod end again and how diffult to split the outer part from the hub ?

Outer CV joint is relatively easy. Quite cheap on fleabay. Slacken the nut on the outer end of the shaft whilst on the ground; put the car on stands; separate the tie rod end; remove the nut on the lower suspension arm and using a big screw driver or small crowbar separate from the stub axle carrier. You can now remove the nut from the drive shaft. Pull the stub axle carrier outward whilst holding the drive shaft and it should slip out. Might require some persuasion with a hammer on the end of the shaft. Not a biggie as you will be replacing it. You can now remove the drive shaft from the gearbox/diff housing. Plug the hole with a clean rag to stop oil draining.

Put the drive shaft in a vice and remove the old boot. There is a circlip holding the CV joint on to the shaft. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the ends of the circlip and twist to open. With it open give the handle of the screwdriver a smack with a hammer and this should release the CV joint. This part can be tedious. You are good the go with replacing the joint in reverse order.

(23-02-2010 05:14 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  Outer CV joint is relatively easy. Quite cheap on fleabay. Slacken the nut on the outer end of the shaft whilst on the ground; put the car on stands; separate the tie rod end; remove the nut on the lower suspension arm and using a big screw driver or small crowbar separate from the stub axle carrier. You can now remove the nut from the drive shaft. Pull the stub axle carrier outward whilst holding the drive shaft and it should slip out. Might require some persuasion with a hammer on the end of the shaft. Not a biggie as you will be replacing it. You can now remove the drive shaft from the gearbox/diff housing. Plug the hole with a clean rag to stop oil draining.

Put the drive shaft in a vice and remove the old boot. There is a circlip holding the CV joint on to the shaft. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the ends of the circlip and twist to open. With it open give the handle of the screwdriver a smack with a hammer and this should release the CV joint. This part can be tedious. You are good the go with replacing the joint in reverse order.

Thanks - I will be doing the job tommorow weather permitting

(23-02-2010 05:14 PM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  Outer CV joint is relatively easy. Quite cheap on fleabay. Slacken the nut on the outer end of the shaft whilst on the ground; put the car on stands; separate the tie rod end; remove the nut on the lower suspension arm and using a big screw driver or small crowbar separate from the stub axle carrier. You can now remove the nut from the drive shaft. Pull the stub axle carrier outward whilst holding the drive shaft and it should slip out. Might require some persuasion with a hammer on the end of the shaft. Not a biggie as you will be replacing it. You can now remove the drive shaft from the gearbox/diff housing. Plug the hole with a clean rag to stop oil draining.

Put the drive shaft in a vice and remove the old boot. There is a circlip holding the CV joint on to the shaft. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the ends of the circlip and twist to open. With it open give the handle of the screwdriver a smack with a hammer and this should release the CV joint. This part can be tedious. You are good the go with replacing the joint in reverse order.

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Hi mate, I have taken off the shaft today and noticed lots of free play on the inner joint ie slides up and down is that as it should be ? or does it need changing as well - Realise its the outer cv that takes the impacts on the road - My wife learnt in this so it got kerbed a lot

I am not sure what you mean by "slides up and down". The inner joint like the outer joint provides a 3D pivot. The stress on the inner joint is obviously less pronounced than on the outer joint.

Facts about CV joints; providing the joint is protected by the boot and is not bashed around it could last the life of the vehicle. Most outer CV joints fail because the boot splits and allows dirt and water in and grease out. Inner joints seldom fail except if the joint is damaged by over flexing it. When removing and installing it is best to support them so they remain fairly straight.

Kerb bashing damages the CV joint, tie rods and track rod and should be avoided.

Rob

(25-02-2010 09:40 AM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  I am not sure what you mean by "slides up and down". The inner joint like the outer joint provides a 3D pivot. The stress on the inner joint is obviously less pronounced than on the outer joint.

Facts about CV joints; providing the joint is protected by the boot and is not bashed around it could last the life of the vehicle. Most outer CV joints fail because the boot splits and allows dirt and water in and grease out. Inner joints seldom fail except if the joint is damaged by over flexing it. When removing and installing it is best to support them so they remain fairly straight.

Kerb bashing damages the CV joint, tie rods and track rod and should be avoided.

Rob

Thanks I will have a go again to day - Theres definate play in the outer joint also the obvious clicking around corners so I am sure its the outer .

Hi Again, Can't get the circlip off the shaft have tryed wacking with copper hammer with the shaft in a vice no movement on it - Also the clip will not disslodge with a screw driver so that seems a blind alley- At the end my of teather with it any ideas ?
The thought of a used shaft of Ebay sounds tempting

(25-02-2010 06:05 PM)depeyre Wrote:  Hi Again, Can't get the circlip off the shaft have tryed wacking with copper hammer with the shaft in a vice no movement on it - Also the clip will not disslodge with a screw driver so that seems a blind alley

The width of the blade must be sufficient to open the clip fairly wide. Slide the blade into the gap and slowly twist the blade to open the clip. With the clip open and the blade almost touching the body of the CV joint give it a smart whack with a hammer. You are going to bin the CV joint so damage to it is not relevant. I found this the easiest way and that is what is recommended in the manual. Have also used a pair of circlip pliers to no avail.

(26-02-2010 10:04 AM)Mitzy2 Wrote:  

(25-02-2010 06:05 PM)depeyre Wrote:  Hi Again, Can't get the circlip off the shaft have tryed wacking with copper hammer with the shaft in a vice no movement on it - Also the clip will not disslodge with a screw driver so that seems a blind alley

The width of the blade must be sufficient to open the clip fairly wide. Slide the blade into the gap and slowly twist the blade to open the clip. With the clip open and the blade almost touching the body of the CV joint give it a smart whack with a hammer. You are going to bin the CV joint so damage to it is not relevant. I found this the easiest way and that is what is recommended in the manual. Have also used a pair of circlip pliers to no avail.

Hi Again,
Got that sorted - Lost a bit of gearbox oil on taking the shaft off although have plugged it with a wrag - Any ideas how you top it up, can you reach it from above the engine - I can see if the air filter unit is took out it gives some space but not sure were the plug is anyway - Also I have read it should be 80/90 oil ?
A big thanks

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Hi Again,
Got that sorted - Lost a bit of gearbox oil on taking the shaft off although have plugged it with a wrag - Any ideas how you top it up, can you reach it from above the engine - I can see if the air filter unit is took out it gives some space but not sure were the plug is anyway - Also I have read it should be 80/90 oil ?
A big thanks

The gearbox filler plug is on the left side of the box, just above the drive shaft. If you have a length of half inch (13mm) plastic tube you can thread this through from the top and then topup using the bottle. Your spares dealer will give the spec of the oil or you can find it in the online manual.